Posted by Sam Mangano (IP: 209.66.34.77) on July 18, 1999 at 23:05:50:
In Reply to: Quick Painting question... posted by Chris on July 18, 1999 at 12:33:46:
Chris,
That drip edge moulding is actually anodized aluminum, and it is just pressed on to the drip rail. The best way I've found to remove it is by using an old fashioned can/bottle opener. In the old days when motor oil was sold in paper cans with metal lids, you needed one to punch a hole in the top to pour the oil out. Now the darn things sit in our toolboxes because there's no use for them anymore. So if you have one, cover the pointed end with some tape (so as not to scratch the moulding) and place the hook part of the opener on the very inside edge of the moulding as it wraps over the drip rail. Apply gentle pressure towards you and the moulding should start to pop off the drip rail. Follow it along the entire edge, and just be careful not to bend or crease it by using too much pressure.
Sam :)
: I'm getting my mav painted in a week from monday (painted on the 26th), and since i'm getting the cheapest possible at the best place in town, i thought i'd help them out a little by removing all the chrome, etc. So, my question: how do i remove the chrome strip along the weather channels (right above the door)?
: Also, i found out recently that my mav was hit hard in the rear quarter, and had a new piece welded on (with lots of bondo). It's now cracking, i'm sure it's been plenty of years. The guy at the paint shop says that i need to sand all of the bondo off and start fresh, but i think that if i just sanded the cracks into v's and filled them it would work out just fine (especially since the bondo is already very well done). Is there any specific reason why i need to sand all of it off? Bondo doesn't crack with AGE, does it (i believe mine cracked because the lateral supports behind the rear seat broke at the weld)??
: Well, thanks for any help.
: Chris