Posted by Mavman (IP: 204.181.93.26) on March 20, 2000 at 03:31:56:
In Reply to: Pleasent update....:) posted by Paulie on March 18, 2000 at 19:26:55:
: This morning I hoofed it down to the shop prepared to fight BUT hoping I wouldn't have too. I get there and they are already tooling away on the problem. The day folk were SO much nicer than that IDIOT I talked to last night. They already had the new carb, added a new feul filter AND ran an emmisions diagnostic at no extra charge. I took off later that morning to go chew up my tranny shop (I don't like minor chiropractic adjustments between 1rst and 2nd!) and found it closed. Car is STILL having little siezueres at stop lights so BACK I go... 10 minutes later (and MUCH happier!) I go over to Schucks because they are ALREADY starting the "labor reimbursment" (they ALSO upgraded my carb without charging me extra). I should see my refund either as soon as monday or within a few weeks (it might have to go through "corperate")
: I thanked ALL concerend for their excellent assistance (I know it's not their fault that someone who test these parts needs to be SHOT!) and told them that in a few weeks I'll be back for the heater core.
: Nice to know there are SOME good ones out there!
As far as the 1 bbl carb? You could have done that easily. Just a couple nuts removed. Clean your surfaces. Reinstall and go. Minor adjustments. I know that I haven't had a Maverick 1 bbl in years, but I remember changing my first one. Had the same troubles with the "rebuilt" carb. Finally just put the old one back on and waited for the V8.
Just remember...most parts are just what mechanics call "R and R". Remove and replace. As an ex-mechanic that's about how easy most parts are. Things like the front suspension, regulator, alternator, battery...those are easy replacements. The suspension just takes alot of care, and some common sense. REMEMBER!!!..that car is heavy, and those springs are weighted down. Almost took my head off 10 years back when I tried to remove the upper control arm without properly removing the coil spring first. Once you get everything replaced. Take it to an alignment shop. Most shop work is ALL labor. If you can turn a wrench, CAREFULLY try it yourself before taking it to the shop. Then bring it in for adjustment if necessary.
I have known quite a few EXCELENT mechanics, but also have known some actual ASE certified idoits. I learned that if you do most of the work yourself, you by-pass most of the stress that you seem to be having. Life is too short to be so stressed, and being that stressed pretty much takes all the FUN outta your GREAT little cars that you have.
I.E. "Damn!!!! I'm so tired of screwing and getting screwed with this thing....I'm just gonna get it running and get rid of it!"
NOW!!! For the heater core! FIND SOMEONE THAT KNOWS MAVERICKS!!! It's not that hard to do, but it will be easier if they know that there should be three nuts on the engine compartment side that need to be removed, and that the entire package tray needs to come down. Can just remove the 3/8 inch bolts above either kickpanel, remove the pan head screws that attach it to the actual metal part of the dash, need to get it out around the emergency brake lever, and need to remove the heater ducts. There is a 3/8 bolt that screws upwards right behind the dash, right next to the passenger door. And if I remember correctly, there is a bolt behind the radio, which also needs to come out. Remove the center air vents from the dash. The vacuum hoses need to be marked and disconnected. The temp door cable needs to be disconnected from the heater box. There is a ground wire that attaches to the steering column, and a hot lead that attaches to a small, yet ancient circuit board. Drain and disconnect the heater hoses. If equipped with A/C, need to disconnect the lines to the "H" block. Shouldn't need to remove the "H" block. The "hole" should be large enough to allow the heater assm to drop out with it attached. It will need to lift a hair, then straight to the rear of the car. Might have to remove the antenna cable too.
Once out, have to remove the compression clip from the temp door rod, then slide it out. CAREFULLY pull all the "C" clips that hold the two pieces of the heater assm together, and the bottom should come off. There, you should see the evap(?) for the A/C, and need to remove the 1/4 screws to get the heater core out. The fun is getting it all back in. Need two people. One to get the heater assm back into place, and one to replace the nuts on the engine compartment side.
Now...the "Intake" that routes the air to either the defroster, or out the front will fall loose when the heater assm comes out. This is a pain to get back in because you need about 8 hands in a one hand area. Kinda like a monkey trying to F%^k a football. Always was a nice visual. HEHEHE....
Just get all the engine side nuts tight, while the other person is holding the assm up TIGHTLY in place. It should stay well enough from there to get the other screws/nuts/bolts back in and tight.
I would show you, but there are just WAY too many miles between us, just to replace a heater core. LOL
Hope this helps, and is not TOO long and drawn out.