It sounds like you have a pretty good combination there. My only suggestions would be to not use the 351W heads, that you try to keep compression at at least 9.5:1, install a slightly and you run a little looser converter. Having said this, please allow me to explain my rationale.

While a 351W cylinder head has more potential than a 289/302 cylinder head, it will hurt the performance of a 302 engineered to run low 13's. The reason for this is two-fold. First of all, a 351W cylinder head will greatly reduce compression as its chamber size is considerably larger than its 302 counterpart. Secondly, the port volume is larger in the 351W head than in the 302 head. The combination of these two things will kill what little torque a 302 makes and so desperately needs. My suggestion would be to fund a set of closed chambered 289 cylinder heads and have them ported. You would be surprised at how much power they can make.

Compression is also a key factor in making the power you want. I am assuming that this is to be a daily driven motor. Therefore I would run no lower than 9.5:1 and preferably 10.5:1 compression. A flat-top piston with the closed chamber 289 cylinder head will get you where you need to be. Some will tell you that 10.5:1 is too much to drive on pump gas. I promise that is simply not true. If you keep the ignition timing reasonable, knock any sharp edges off the pistions and chambers, and run 93 octane gas, you will have absolutely no detonation problems. Higher compression will give you more torque and allow you to run more camshaft.

The reason for more camshaft is to take advantage of the cylinder head porting. The cam that you mentioned seems a little conservative and fine for unported factory heads. On a daily driven motor, I would recommend something around .500-.525 lift and .050 durations in the low 230's range. I would also tighten up the lobe separation angle to 110-112. If possible, I would use a solid cam. Their profiles are snappier and make more power. This ought to allow you to run the motor up to 6500-7000 rpm range and provide more lope that you are looking for.

As for the converter, something around 3000 stall is perfect. However, I cannot stress the importance of spending the $ on a good converter. You definitely get what you pay for. A high quality converter will not slip as much while driving and give you the performance you need when racing.

The 3.73 sounds perfect (assuming that you using an 8", 3.73 may be hard to find), especially if you plan on using NOS. If you do not run NOS, I would use 4:10's. I would also run a 650-700 cfm carburetor and a large dual plane (e.g. Performer RPM) or small single plane (e.g Offenhauser Port-O-Sonic, old-style Torker).

This may seem like a lot but my recommendations would not cost much more as you were already planning on cylinder head porting, pistons, camshaft and converter and none of my suggestions requires exotic parts or machine work.

I assure you that your car will run no slower than low 13's and probably even in the 12's on the motor if you follow these ideas. It will be a very streetable and reliable and will even get reasonable fuel mileage. My Maverick used to have a 302 with a 750 dp, 4500 converter and 4.86 gears and would get around 10-11 mpg cruising at 3000 rpm (45mph).

Good luck with the project. I hope it turns out as you plan.