Re: Thanks for the tips everyone - Even more tips!  
Re: Thanks for the tips everyone -- MaverickMan Post Reply Top of thread Maverick Message Board
Posted by: Tracy Norris ®
2001/12/06, 15:15:47

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MM,

HEADERS: I connected my headers on AFTER I put the engine in (easy to do on the passenger side, slide them in from underneath) but I had to lift the engine about 2 inches to get the headers in on the drivers side (again, slid in from underneath). MavMan, etc all say its easier to put them on beforehand but I did it the hard way. Hopefully there will not be a need for a "next time"

I have had several emails from people that used headers different than the ones I used (I used Heddman Headers) and they said that there were 0 (zero) changes needed. They said that the engine did not need to be lifted and that the stock power cylinder bracket could be used. I'll try and get the brand name of the headers for you. All in the name I guess.

I don't see any reason whatsoever that the headers wouldn't work with a manual transmission. Go for it!

REAR END: This is my next project. I don't have any info on it but maybe someone can enlighten me! A bolt-on rear disc 9 incher sounds really good right now! (my right rear tire is getting worn out!)

FUEL LINE: IF yours comes out BEHIND the drivers shock tower, then grab one off a V8 where it comes out of the hold in FRONT of the shock tower. Keeps the line away from headers (!) and prevents vaporlock (mine had this BAD!)

SPRINGS: I hate to get strange with everyone here BUT when I pulled my '76 250 I6 and replaced it with the V8 the front engine actually sat HIGHER than when it had the I6 in it! This is using the spring origionally in the I6! I've not put a lot of driving on the car yet to get it "settled" but I don't expect it to settle much further. It's got kind of a "nosebleed" stance right now but that could be due to my broken rear leaf springs (new four-leafers are in my living room waiting for me to put them in!).

RADIATOR: I have heard it said that you need to run a larger radiator, I'm not so sure...

When I had the I6 250 in it, I had to replace the radiator. I got one from Autozone for $143. When I checked the auto parts stores and asked for pricing on both the I6 and V8 radiators ALL OF THE STORES SAID THEY WERE THE SAME PART NUMBER. So... In goes my new V8 with 190 degree thermostat, "I6" radiator and new hoses and I have yet to see the tempurature rise above 180 degrees (except for intial warm up, it goes to 205 then drops to 180 when the thermostat opens.).

So, I'm not sure if the old radiator needs to go. Might wanna hang on to it if its not leaking/plugged/etc.

Lastly... Good to hear your working on a real car now! All that Chevy stuff musta been killing ya!

Take care and good luck,
Tracy


:Terrific advise,things I would have never thought of,expessially the fuel line rerouting. Just to make sure I have understood everthing correctly:
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:Connect headers to the engine,THEN drop it in. (can the motor AND tranny be installed together?)
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:Headers WON`T work with a manual transmission.
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:1975-1980 Granada/Monarch rear end and front disc assembly/A-arms are bolt on.(someone said `74 Granada-no such thing?)
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:Rerout the fuel line through small hole in shock tower.
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:Special bracket to lower P/S piston needed.
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:V-8 throttle bracket/cable needed
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:The NO-Brainer things,V-8 springs,radiator(will Granada radiator fit?)
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:I have a diagram to wire a factory Ford electronic ignition system from points,so I`m all set on that.
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:And if anyone is doing a GM 6 to 8 engine swap,I can help,done plenty. Chevy small blocks into 78-87 Regals,Cutlasses,Grand Prixs,Monte Carlos,my specialty.
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