has anyone ever tried the sumit cam for sbf part # sum-K3601 its the mid-level cam they offer it has a dual pattern duration but he lift is the same for both intake and exhaustJust curious ive heard a lot about the use of the rv cam sum-k3600 anyways just curious
Would have to find out what you want to use it for,then give me the #s on the cam & I could probably tell you whether or not it will be a good choice.
The sum-k3600 is the exact same cam as an Edelbrock Performer +, low rpm/high torque. In fact Edelbrock probably gets them from the same grinder but doubles the price because the box says "Edelbrock". I ran one for a lot of years, good street cam but your engine stops pulling at just over 5000 rpm. The sum-K3601 has more intake lift and overall duration, would probably extend the rpm range by 600-700 rpm. As Dan asked, need more information about the car and intended usage.
I just wanna good street car with good street manners, I have stock 302 with long tube headers,edelbrock rpm intake ,Mallory ignition,stock comnvertor and 3.00 gears c-4 has shift kit .im leaning more toward the 3600 cam just curious if anyone has ever used the other cam kit.THe cam in my car now is 292 single pattern cam with 228 @50 and 512 lift way to much cam for this set-up I didn't put it in there I guess the previouds owner wanna a good sound
What kind of sound do you want? Power brakes too? As of now.. your combo is currently powerful enough(easily 300+) that if you really want to wake the current combo up to it's potential?(instant solid 13 second car)... swap in a mild 2,500 rpm convertor and/or install better rear gear(3.50'ish is good all-around ratio) at the minimum. Then get it professionally tuned to dial it all in. That little motor will come alive in a light car like these if you keep it in its sweet spot longer(3,000-5,500). 3.00 gears just can't do that.. but boy are they fun to drive when that pull really sets you back into your seat on the highway. Or.. we can make it a solid "fun to drive" cruiser that makes you grin while getting onto the on ramp with your current rear gear. Something like the K3600 would be about the max for those gears and convertor. Higher cylinder pressure and more torque where you can use it more often and help pull that gear. Plus.. it has more duration split to help the weak exhaust port out on that head and aid in scavenging effect to extend the rpm range a bit further. Slightly less cranking compression is well worth that trade for an extended power range with these heads. Personally.. I think you can get closer.. and considerably faster.. by optimizing the current combo with gear and convertor(more $$$).. but there's huge potential gains to be had. Otherwise, to keep that gear and stock convertor?.. you'll have to give up a fair amount of duration(around 15-20 degrees of "top end pull") to do it. Not much way around it with a lower static compression ratio these stock parts give you to work with. Just another friendly FYI here too.. that current cam can be made to idle fairly decently with the right advance and fuel curve too(hydro @228* is not really excessive). The static and dynamic running compression is lower on this motor due to the current cams timing and static compression ratio.. but I've run stouter low compression/bigger cam setups than this at 900 rpm with decent enough vacuum for power brakes. You just have spin em' higher to make more power strokes, is all. So, it's completely doable without being too uncivilized with proper tuning as the key. Have you ever done a compression test on this cam/motor? Stock umbrella type seals on the valve stems?
not sure about the head work springs ,valve seat etc. but to answer the question about brakes no..i have manual brakes and steering no air on the car either its a 1970 I wil consider the stall and 3.55 gears thanks
