Never run more than 40° total ignition advance on a small-block Ford. Personally I don't go over 38°. Yeah, it never fails that someone will tell you they've always run a lot more and "never had a problem". The same thing happens on the topic of air-shocks on Mavericks (a really bad idea), or running a spool on the street (another bad idea). But more importantly, if you want to be reckless, that is your prerogative, but giving advice to others that is reckless is irresponsible, or at best, ignorant.
You guys are a blast..lol.. I messed with the timing and still don't know what rpm I should set it at... I set the timing to 14* at idle and it raised my idle up to around 1200 rpm.. So I reset my idle to 900 rpm and when I put the timing light back on it the timing is now back down to 8* ... So as you can tell I don't know what the heck I'm doing... Help!!!!
Setting timing can be a viscous cycle... First if you have it, always unplug vac advance, then set timing with engine at your desired idle RPMs... If timing was far enough off spec the idle will be effected and need set again, then recheck timing... Next the mechanical advance should be checked(leave vac disconnected)... Bring up RPMs till the mechanical stops advancing and note max advance and RPM(hopefully it's by around 3K or the timing curve should be tuned(springs & weights)... Now it's decision time, if you're shooting for a total advance of 38* and you have 34* you can advance your timing 4* and let that setting(say 10 + 4) be your base timing... Assuming the above here's the catch 22, reconnecting the vac advance will add timing at part throttle so engine may ping or buck slightly at light throttle... It should not make any difference at full throttle as there isn't supposed to be vacuum at that point... Vacuum advancing timing at WOT means you have a restriction above the heads, can be intake but usually carb or some dinky air cleaner...
Well said. Furthermore.. adding heavier initial and faster mechanical sweeps usually requires "tightening up" the vac pots supplementation so it doesn't go overboard and cause light throttle surge/bucking/cut-out. It's usually adjustable on Ford and should be tested again with a light(at say.. 2,500rpm free rev to help mimic cruise speeds on the highway) when the other parameters have been dialed in already. Basically.. you want the absolute highest manifold vacuum that you can achieve at idle rpm's and slightly above(high idle speeds).. but not so much that it causes idle/part throttle lean out conditions and forces the need to start learning about carb tuning in the process of tweaking for that last 2% gain. Most are happy enough with better starting, improved throttle response, and better efficiency. Without computer controls.. it's all about compromise and really is a balancing act for each combo.. and even driving style. I'd lean towards about 14 - 16* initial settings.. with around 38 - 40* total timing number "all in" at around 2,600 - 2,800 rpm(loaded weight and gearing plays a big role here).. plus full manifold sourced vac pot supplementation of another 8 - 12* will give you all around improvements.
Oh,yea I forgot that you're the engine GOD here And have to be reminded of that "fact" quite often, lest your ego gets deflated (among other body parts) You're the only one here that knows everything I never claimed my opinions were fact. Why is it that you have so much problem accepting anyone else's contributions to a thread ? Are you THAT insecure ? Personally I think this MUST be the case with you. Suck it up buttercup, you're only a legend in your own mind.
lol.. I take back the.. "you argue like a chick" remark. It's becoming quite obvious that you argue like an 8 year old girl. And while we're getting into the childish name calling(and you say I'm insecure?). I have to ask you your name so I know how to refer to you in the future. Everyone else around here seems to be calling you Dick lately. Is that really your name?
all this rocket science is making my head hurt - find top dead center on number 1 drop the distributor in till it points there twist the distributor around till it starts if it pings going up hill back it off -wont start advance it till it starts with just hitting the switch advance it or retard it till you find the sweet spot by ear tighten it down backyard engineering mark it with chalk cut it with a torch under a big shade tree:evilsmile
LOL... That is what I did, but I stabbed the dizzy in at 10* BTDC it started on my first try... I'm still trying to bleed the hydraulic clutch, when thats done I'll test drive it...
Since you asked.. and it's obviously your ride.. just keep in mind that you cannot.. maybe better to say.. should not try to.. tune the entire ignition curve by just "turning the distributor until you get low-mid rpm/high load pinging". If that was the case.. they wouldn't even put weights and springs in there to begin with. Many have done it, including myself before I started tearing them apart to do it the recommended way, and it can often be better than the factory baseline(especially if the engine is modified) if you find a happy medium. But you'll inevitably just be robbing Peter to pay Paul with improvements in some area's and losses in another. Also keep in mind that detonation is not audible at higher rpm and power loss is not the only hazard of too much lead at higher rpm's. Good luck with it all.
I will still use a timing light, I just need to understand the process a little better... I'm not a mechanic and it's very hard to understand... I will learn, or take it to someone that will set it...
Good for you. As I mentioned via PM.. cast pistons and cheap composite head gaskets don't tolerate complacency and/or ignorance very well when it comes to aggressive ignition tuning. Here's a decent overview to accelerate the learning curve a bit faster. http://fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/index.shtml
seriously use a timing light and buy a chiltons or other shop manual read it and then you will have a reference to do Anything to your car anything can be done by yourself if you follow the directions in a shop manual I bought an old chiltons off e bay for the Maverick for seven bucks
As a almost 100% rule, 60s & 70s Fords factory curve was very lazy and often wasn't full in till 4K RPM or higher... Was common practice to go with a more tuneable aftermarket dizzy or at least apply the magic to the stock dist... Aftermarket tune kits(often just a couple springs) were also avail for most mfgrs dist...
