Starter clicks, wont crank

Discussion in 'Technical' started by garrettmuir1227, Aug 6, 2014.

  1. garrettmuir1227

    garrettmuir1227 (Almost) Certified to Work on Your Porsche

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    Hi i have been having this problem for a while now. It is a starter out of a 1994 mustang, so it has a built in solenoid. I have the switch wire on the solenoid wired to a button in the car. I got a new battery, tried 2 different starters ( both used and unsure of there workability) and it wont crank unless i put the battery on a charger. Every once in a while it'll crank without the charger, seemingly at full potential, but it is very rare. Also the battery reads 12.4 volts so I'm not draining power. I have ordered a brand new solenoid for the starter but I'm not sure that'll fix it. Thanks for any help
     
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Bad ground or bad starter...Bad battery cables... 12.4 volts is on the threshold of not turning the starter over. 12.6 is a safe minimum. It starts with a jump just fine??? Or with the battery charger on it just fine?? but not all by its lonesome??? Is the battery relocated to the trunk???
     
  3. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member

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    Load test the battery. And like mentioned, check all your cables and connections.
     
  4. Pintony

    Pintony Member

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    Bad Battery!
     
  5. garrettmuir1227

    garrettmuir1227 (Almost) Certified to Work on Your Porsche

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    Okay I'll check my connections, then go from there. I always work with a problem easiest to do first to hardest lol. And the battery is 100% brand new. Is the switch on the starter pretty sensitive to the amount of power it gets before it'll crank? Or does it have an affect at all? I always assumed the switch part is okay whn it clicks. But never was sure
     
  6. Pintony

    Pintony Member

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    A single click means that power is getting to the solenoid but not to the starter.
    Multiple clicks means the power is not getting to the solenoid.
    If you bought a bargain battery it might be bad. Have it checked or swap with a known good battery to test my theory...
     
  7. schroensr

    schroensr knight Runner

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    Follow the wire to the fuse block on the firewall an make sure its pushed in all the way.
     
  8. Pintony

    Pintony Member

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    Fuse Block on firewall? Somebody post a photo of this block...
     
  9. garrettmuir1227

    garrettmuir1227 (Almost) Certified to Work on Your Porsche

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    I'm not using factory wiring for the solenoid. I'll do some work and eliminate some things today after work. I'll take the battery in and see whats up and possibly trade it in see if that helps
     
  10. garrettmuir1227

    garrettmuir1227 (Almost) Certified to Work on Your Porsche

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    So i have narrowed it down quiete a bit. Took the battery to the auto part store and they tested it. Came out working fine and they charged it to 12.7 volts. Threw it in the car and it started right up. Ran it for a bit and tested its voltage while running. About 14.5 volts, so the alternator is doing its job. Turn it off and then tried to start it again and it cranked right over. Then i turned it off and let it sit for some couple hours, tried to crank and it's just a click. Doesn't that mean i have a power leak some where?
     
  11. Pintony

    Pintony Member

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    Hello garrettmuir1227,
    Check your headlight grounds.
    I know it is a pain in the arse, but pull all your fuses out.
    In a dark area, sometimes you can see a small spark in the circuit when re installing the fuse if there is a battery draw.
    Assuming you do not have the testing equipment.
    Are you running an electric choke? Make sure it is only hot when the key is on.
    A 12v light tester is invaluable when tracing electrical gremlins.
    Remember every "load" MUST have its own ground in a D/C circuit.
    From Pintony
     
  12. Pintony

    Pintony Member

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    A power leak that big should leave a puddle!!!!
    :lolup:
     
  13. garrettmuir1227

    garrettmuir1227 (Almost) Certified to Work on Your Porsche

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    Okay so of course with my usual luck i tried everything but the one thing i did to the starter wiring which was the starter button. Turns out the power i tapped into wasn't quite a good 12v source because i thought what the heck i guess I'll try another power wire and BAM cranks everytime. I later checked the wire and my old or was at 11.45v and the new one is at about 11.95v:dead: The wonders half a bolt can make i guess
     
  14. Pintony

    Pintony Member

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    Good to hear you got it sorted!
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2014

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