So I rebuilt the front drum brakes because the wheel cylinders were leaking then I put fluid in and pumped the brakes a bit and the brakes engage but wont disengage could it be a bad master cylinder? My master cylinder is looking pretty rusty
some times after aging they break down on the inside and will stop up the line either braking or releasing. you could try opening the bleeder valve and see if they release.
I wud replace the "rusty ms cyl". and the rubber lines. Wud'nt take a chance on either failing since they're both questionable from a safety perspective.
I'm gona replace both but if I open the bleeder valve and it releases does that mean it was probably the lines?
I wud'nt bother w/ opening the bleeder until I replace the above mentioned parts. Since the master is questionable that way, U will only have to bleed sys once. I personally, believe a new "not rebuilt/reman." master. I believe the chances are less in getting a defective unit ---JMO.
Open the bleeder half turn and listen. Get ready to hear it spit back. Close the bleeder and see if the brake let go. If they let go then you have a bad brake hose.
So I put a new master cylinder in and new rubber brake line the brakes work but they take a min to actually stop the car is it just cuz my self adjusters need to adjust themselves and it will start to feel better after a while?
When you put the new shoes on did you adjust the shoes to have a slight drag on the drum? The self adjusters are there to help keep the shoes in adjustment, not adjust it to where it needs to be.
You have to initially adjust the shoes when replaced to get the self-adjuster to adjust. See http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/brake_system_02.html#f I have seen many of times the adjuster being on the wrong side of the car and they turn the adjuster the wrong way and loosen the shoes. This is why its a good ideal to change shoes one side at a time to prevent parts getting mixed together