I agree. Just don't use an impact wrench to drive it on (yes. I've seen this done). You want the snout to go through the seal slowly or you may pop the tensioner spring off the seal or damage the seal face.
Eggs..actly. And most of this old stuff has been used more than once by now. Talk to a crankshaft guy and he'll more than likely tell you he can usually tell the ones that have been repeatedly "screwed on" vs the ones that have been driven on. Mojo. Do the simple test I mentioned above and then come back to update us on how much thread engagement you found. And more importantly.. the level of security you feel is involved with a wiggly sloppy feeling bolt starting to tug away on the bolt and cranks beginning threads. On the other hand.. i.. and almost undoubtedly all who screw their balancers on as normal engine building practice.. get away with poached threads on the first third of the bolt and crank once the balancer has been seated all the way. Sure ain't going to be any stronger of a connection though and I've been scolded by many machinists for doing it.
I hv considered the flex plate or converter may be the cause. I am going to do balancer first, cuz it looks questionable. I am going to hv the C4 gone-thru and will address that issue at that point even if the balancer solves the vibe problem. I don't believe it's an internal engine problem, but can't bank on it. I hv gained a lot of gud suggestions/ideas on this matter -- things I was not aware of/thought about, prior to starting the thread. Thankful for all the input.
I have decided to borrow the tools from Advance Auto w/ $45.00 deposit and not take chances/hopefully on damaging my crankshaft. I think that may be my best option. Since I only plan on doing this once, seems to be best way to go -- If I do it more than once -- still may be best way to go. Got to get to it soon, winter coming fast and don't have heat garage. The plan is get on it next week..
Quite true, however I would also be concerned about the beginning threads on the crank snout. Personally, I plan to play it safe and use a install tool.
I removed all the stuff in the way to get my balancer off the engine. We had a vry nice day here for mid November, at mid 60's, sunny and calm. Had to motivate myself into getting it done. Anyway, I believe, from what I see, the balancer is in need of attention. I bought a balancer from Rock Auto, but is entirely different from the OE. I will return it and have the OE rebuilt. That's probably the best way to go for me, since I know when it goes back on it will fit w/o any issues. I think this is at least part of my vibe/buzz in my steering wheel and gas pedal.
Yea! Ur right! I felt the vibes get worse over a period that I have owned the car. I guess the buzz got worse over time -- I don't recall feeling them to any degree until a bout year ago. I noticed the rubber in the hb when under the car working on something - don't recall what I was workin on. Old cars, you work on a lot. I should have changed it when I did a water pump about 2 yrs ago. If I had known it was bad, would have done it. The engine was recently rebuilt B4 I got the car in 09 and had supposedly about 8k on it. I do believe it was rebuilt cuz everything under valve covers indicate that may be the case. I don't see why anyone wud rebuild an engine and put a worn out damper on it. Maybe, they decided to get rid of it after they did the engine -- for whatever reason. The engine runs great cept for the buzz -- see what develops when damper goes back on. I hope this solves the problem. I plan on having my C4 rebuilt/resealed or whatever it needs. It leaks a little fluid, but shifts right on the money. I am tired of fluid on my floor and carrying trans fluid in my trunk when I leave town. Thought about swapping to AOD but don't drive that much on the highway to worry about it. Car has orig. 2.79 gears works ok for what I do.
i drove my 74 for a year then had the engine rebuilt, they showed me my balancer and only the middle part was left. They asked me if I had a vibration, I told them no... lol
Can't see how this is not part of, or have an adverse effect on my engine operating properly or it's survivability. Will let you know when I have it back on the car.
Installed the rebuilt/repaired damper today; I was motivated by the mid 40 degree, sunny, calm wind day. I sent the damper to Dale Mfg., of Salem, Oregon and had a turn around time of 10 days including a weekend and Thanksgiving. I borrowed a universal balance removal/install tool from big box retailer, after trying for 40 mins. trying to figure out how to get it to work - no luck, decided to see how far it would go back on the crank. After coating the outer side of the snout w/ light coat of wheel bearing lube and inside w/ anti-seeze the darn thing slide on all the way w/ almost no effort. I was very much suprised -- no tools needed! Cud have save my self abt 1 1/2 hrs going to 2 stores and waiting in line along w/ trying to figure out how it works. Going to put it all back together tomorrow and see what improvements/changes are in store. Take it out and drive it, no such thing as putting it up for winter, long as street are dry.... Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. This looks like somewhat an improvement than the damper in post#22, has to be part of my problem.
may be your exhaust system hitting the frame in 40 years I have hardly ever seen a balancer fail unless it was installed wrong could be flexplate like said earlier could be drive shaft could be motor mount
