Stalling At Red Light

it seems that as it gets hotter the problem gets worse. Im driving a 70 maverick. Ive noticed that when its having the stalling issue that the section of fuel line running from the pump to the carb is nearly blistering hot. When its hot enough, i actually have to let the car sit and cool off before i can start it. Some times when i do get it started itll die as soon as i put it in drive and give it gas. What could be causing this?

 

Ethanol gasoline has a lower boiling point than pure gasoline, and contributes to vapor lock and flooding.
Try shielding the fuel line from engine heat. Also try advancing the timing a little bit, and make sure your idle speed isn't too slow (I like 800 in Neutral). Make sure your float level in the carb is correct.

 

Ive checked the float level before when this started. Its dead on perfect. How would i advance the timing (im still learning), and what would be a good fuel line shielding material/method?

 

You'll need a timing light, and a mark on the harmonic damper. Rotate the distributor clockwise to advance, counter-clockwise to retard. Summit Racing and other places sell shielding material.

 

V8 or 6 cylinder? The distributor turn in different directions in these engines

 

Yeah, it's probably a 6. My bad.

 

I just turn and watch the timing marks. If they go the wrong way I turn the other way

 

When you turn the distributor and the idle increases you are advancing the timing...when the idle decreases you are retarding the timing.

 

Old mechanics trick. Lay your palm against the side with vac advance pot and wrap your fingertips around the back of the distributors housing. Whichever way your fingertips point is the direction to push the vac pot to advance timing.

Or simply advance to the opposite side of vac pot. Whichever is easier to remember.

 

I like my way better...watch the marks on the balancer

 

I have the 3.3 straight six. I had another question: how hot is normal for an ignition coil after everything is up to operating temperature?

 

Im also dealing with whats starting to look like a collapsed leaf spring on the passenger side.

 

I hear ya. Just a simple trick for fooling about with minor base timing changes when no light is available. Once you get your head around which way the vac pot arm pulls the breaker/pickup it's easy enough to understand without any memory tricks. Plus.. the rpm rise or fall is the biggest clue to which way timing is moving anyways.

 

If it's engine mounted they can get fairly hot to touch for any length of time. Maybe 150+? Ideally there is a rubber cushion between the bracket and coil body to help reduce vibration and heat conduction. Vibration aerates the oil then the and heat kills them over time.