ARP 8740 Rod Bolts vs ARP 2000 Rod Bolts do i really need them? is a $70 more insurance really needed? suggestions? which to use? For Supercharged 331? kinda already know my answer but just here for second thoughts.
i would say this.. peace of mind knowing that they wont fail you when you are hard on the throttle at 6500 rpms down the track, or where ever.
rod bolts My question is what type of rods are they going in? If it's factory stock 302s, why bother. Just get better ARP bolts. They're high quality rods already, shouldn't they have come that way?
you mind your own business there buddy! er 331 gotta be aftermarket... unless there is a 5.400 rod that ford makes that i don't know about which if they do is probably as much as a 4340 H beam.. sorry don't know much about anything else besides a 289 302 lol! anyways just going with the 8740 according to the math formula on the arp site it all i really need. i'm no math wiz but oh well. lol! i'm still all ears though no ones really given me an answer why... now i need a crank! someone wanna buy me one
I think you answered your own question Derrick...70 bucks in cost difference for alot of piece of mind....shoulda... woulda... coulda?
Most companys install ARP rod bolts these days in most kits. What brand kit? My 331 Eagle kit came with ARP2000 installed
bolts I would go with the 8740. There is such a thing as overkill in some areas. Do you need a $2000 forged steel wham bam, Thank You Mam, crankshaft? Only you can answer that. The ARP 8740 is more then enough for your setup. Look at a ARP catalog and see where the 2000 bolt is "recommended". You'll probably have a rod give way long before a ARP bolt does.
A 331 supercharged rocket...spend the extra $ now rather than later! How much compression? How much RPM is it going to turn? My stockrod 306 has arp 5/16 bolts and rpms to 6800, 1200 passes later I am stepping up to Hbeams for a 7500 redline! The early stock crank can take a beating, it all depends what RPM range you plan on! Richard
I think you came to the right conclusion... RPM, piston weight, boost, it all comes into play. But you don't beat on your cars, so I don't think you will have to worry...lol
actually guys i was going to the other concusion.. one my friends builds motors for chevy highperformance (DOH!) and he said i was waisting my money on the 8740s and just get the 2000 since i wasn't turning in past 6500. :confused: i actually have the 2000 in my current motor now with stock rods and crank... 6 lbs boost a little juice everything is fine so far but i know when i tear it down... lol! if anything i think the head gasket is going now. oils looking a bit milky around the pulgs. not much, those small roots blowers are useless after 6500 maybe a bit less so no need to spin the sucker that high... compression.. 8.5 with a twisted wedge head. i know what you mean... my old motor i use to take to about 6700 as yours... that was with stock rods and bolts.. lol! motor never died. i do beat on my cars you just never see me but then again no need to beat on this one that what the white cars for.. lol!
the torqueing of the nut is not the strength... the rod is the strength.. the nut is just there to keep the bolt from coming off
Yes, that makes sense, but what is to prevent them (the nuts) from backing off? There are no lock-washers used, and there is incredible force and vibration applied to those bolts...
i dont know.. but i have never heard of a rod nut coming off that wasnt torqued correctly.... of course i am sure it has happened.. i think the nut has relatively low vibration to it otherwise it would be an issue
