Breaking in not a new engine (already running engine with new cam and new valvetrain). Can someone advise me if 302's use 10/30 or 10/40. Also, I know the oil has to be changed after break-in. I wanted to know is it ok to use the cheap stuff for that, then put the real blood in afterwards.
send me your email and i will send you the article on it you have to use the correct stuff comp part# is 159 the new oil is missing a additive you need
i run the cheap stuff and don't break the cam in....500 miles and change oil, cheap stuff again. ......
Use a diesel engine oil 15W-40 run it 20-30 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Make certain the cam lobes are spinning the lifters when it first fires off, otherwise the cam lobes will be toast. None of this applies to roller cams.
Rotelle 15w40 Is What They Say To Use There Has Been A Few Customers That Have Had Flat Lobes On Cams On Dyno Because Not Correct Oil
Cheap oil for 20 minute breakin at 2000 rpm. Then change. The biggest no-no is not to idle before you do this. The oil does not sling up on cam.
I Think I Misunderstood The Cam Is All Ready Broke In If It Is That Is Not The Stuff That Is If You Are Breaking In New Cam
I use cheap 10/30 for start up break cam in and dump. replace with good stuff and dump again at 1000. replacing filter with each dump................so far so good.
It's time to repeat what most of you are missing. Todays oils are now missing important anti wear additives that flat tappet engines need. You need to pay attention to this. This all happened within the last 2 years. None of the real race people use street oils any longer, that are in the 'know'. Why? The Zincs and some other additives cause shorter cat life in addition most all the engine now have roller lifters. You need to do the research to find the best oils to now use and begin to get rid of all the old hangups on oil. For example, a lot of engines now use 5w20 that you would think is not nearly heavey enough but it's not the heavy weight that important now. Light trucks are now speced for this same oil by the factory.
I hate to be contrary here, but all modern oil grades still contain Zinc dithiophosphate. The amount has been reduced to a rather minimal amount, mainly to limit phospates in the oil. The zinc additives also act as a detergent and prevent varnish buildup, and no real replacement has been found. And many, many companys still use flat tappets. How could an oil company sell oil for use in older engines if it was going to destroy the cam in each one? (And why are all my engines still running?) However, you are correct to say that there is not enough Zinc D. for a very agressive cam. As far as break in, call the cam manufacturer and get thier procedure. Do what they tell you to do. That way its under warranty. As far as the 0w-20 and 5w-20 that the factorys are using now, that is entirly to increse their c.a.f.e. ratings. By reducing the viscosity of the oil, they gain somthing like 2-3% fuel economy. For an engine that will see hard and heavy duty use, this oil can be too thin, and will eat up bearings a bit quicker. But car companys are betting you will get rid of your car or truck before that becomes a problem. They actualy had to develop improved bearings to get severe use engines to last past the warranty periods. Engineered obsolecence at its finest.
