I found a 8" with a detroit locker with 410 gears complete center section, for sale..how do I check the unit is in good working condtion??
You'll probably break the T5 or split the stock block first, in that order, before you hurt the 8". Makes a big difference on what tires you're running, too. Will they hook or spin?
The weak part of the 8" rear end is the caps for the ring gear bearings. My mustang has broke three 8" rear ends snapping the same part. The mustang has a 351 making 364 RWHP and 440 RWTQ and weighs in at 3081 lbs. After installing the four set of gears I added ARP stud kit and that cured the problem. IMO use the 8.8 with a reinforce cover, 9", or one legged 8"
I got a sportsman block built internals. The t5 would probally get sold to get a built c4 with a 3500-4000 stall. But Looks like i might not be getting the car so i might not be joining the ranks just yet.
The first time you sidestep the clutch on 580rwhp with slicks on the car, there will be a loud bang followed by a shrinking sound in your wallet. Now, we can debate whether it will be the t-5, the 8", or the windshield popping out. In any case you'd better budget some real money to upgrade the rest of that drivetrain and unibody. JMHO
The Mustang came with a 8.8 inch. Unless someone put the 8 inch in there you need to be asking about a 8.8. Which with the rite parts is pretty tuff. If you are planning on running the 8 inch which is in the Maverick, Then thats another story. The 8 inch will let go When you put slicks on at a sticky track with as little as 250 hp. It will break the main caps thru the adjuster bolt holder tab. With no traction you could drive around with 8-900 hp all day long and never hurt the rear. STICKY TIRES,STICKY TRACK, 8 INCH GO BOOM.
You got lucky. I have broken three 8" rears with N/A 306 cid engines and street radials! Weak rears...