Any1 ever hook up a water temp gauge how hot is normal?

Got a fresh 302 74 comet, with a mild cam good radiator got it flow checked, electric fan, 160 thermostat the tird one i put in the car, got the timing adjusted to 2degrees and about 38degrees on the high end, rebuilt stock carb and manifold, runs about 205 210 going down the freeway, I have the temp sender on the manifold before the water passes through the thermostat, I've tried many different things like adjustiing the timing at different degrees, does anyone else out there have a temp gauge hooked up in their car how hot is normal for these cars?? I'd like to see it under 200degrees? It will sit and idle at 190 195 until you start driving then it will go up until i shut it off, they did not bore the block and it has new rebuilt heads??
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Are you running a shroud? That helps a lot. I don't know the answer. My street car still has the idiot light.

 

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What does that mean? If you're refering to initial ignition timing, you need a lot more. Retarded ignition timing can cause overheating. If your cooling system is adequate and working correctly the temperature should settle just above your thermostat rating.

 

Coulld be the lower radiator hose is collapsing, too. Is there a spring in it?

 

usually these cars run about 8 degrees initial at idle and with the vacuum advance at 2000 to 2500rpm they run around 40 degrees i'm not sure depends on what it likes with what fuel you run!

 

In the factory manual they say the light comes on around 245 degrees so it could be normal for them to run that hot!

 

Running hotter on the freeway than at idle is usually... Not exactly good.

Seems to be a bit on the warm side for a 302.

 

A shroud is a necessity with these cars in my opinion.Your initial timing should be around 10 to 14 deg with 32 to 36 total on a mild engine build.The stock 2 core radiator was adequate on a stock set up.put a little grunt into the engine and its not enough.I have a mild 30 over sbf in mine and it allways ran at 200 deg untill I put a 3 row in it and added an electric fan and a 180 T-stat it wont go over 190deg now even if I put my foot in it for a good stretch.your 2 core rad may be inadequate or you have a lower hose collapsing on you.Is your radiator cap sealing good and tight??
As stated before retarded timing will also cause the high heat,as well as a bad headgasket or head gaskets installed improperly.Do you have a coolant loss issue at all???

 

uh no....that means pull over, shut car off, or BOOM!!!!

I refrain from guessing over the internet these days....
if it was in front of me I could tell you what it was and fix it....
good luck though.....

 

Maybe

Go with a aluminum radiator, w/a reverse flow and at least two core. Copper just doesn't displace heat like aluminum. A good flush wouldn't hurt. Hope that's all it is, good luck!

 

I have a 200 I6. On a very hot day, 90+ degrees, it would always run 200-215 going down the interstate with a totally stock cooling system. Now with a brand new 2 core radiator, new 180 thermostat, and a Taurus electric fan, it stays right around 185 with the fan on low speed, no matter how hot it is or what I'm doing.

 

How are you measuring your total timing? Is the vacuum advance connected? If so, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance when you check total advance. Then you can set it to 36-38 total advance, After you set the advance then you can reconnect your vacuum advance.

 

Amazing what little bit of changes can do to make it cool 30 degrees huh

 

he changed everything but the waterpump

more insight

 

30 degrees is quite a bit, and thats not very much work changing what he changed honestly. I was meaning time of work vs degree of tempature cooler.

Especially when thermostat is a replacement item already, and a taurus fan is a junkyard find.

Replacing radiators not be a big deal to some, but I find it almost necessary on a 30+ year old car, as who knows what's been in the thing and how clogged it is.