You're right. I shoulda conditioned that statement! A points coil will work with a DS2 or SSI system, but you only get like 1/3 the voltage. It's just a much weaker coil. I am not sure if it would last any time on a DS1 system. So, yeah, they work, but it's a self defeating action to use one. All you get is the benefit of not having to deal with points. You don't get the added benefit of high voltage spark.
Sounds like I have an easy way to put an electronic ignition on my car. Just add a box and a coil. The distributor has been rebuilt (by me) and the advance curve modified. The advance tuning would have to be reworked with the electronic ignition breaker assembly in place because it has higher limits for mechanical advance. Since I won't be dealing with a start sensing wire I won't have to worry about retarded timing during startup. I plan on running the larger cap and 8mm wires so that won't change. I may build a second distributor for the DuraSpark system so I can change from electronic to points at will.
The distributor shaft looks longer/taller than the stock one. Did you have any manifold clearance problems? I'm contemplating doing the same thing but the only way this will clear the manifold is if the shaft is a little longer than the stock Dura-spark.
Good question. I did not have any manifold clearance problems with my dual-plane Performer type manifold. Documentation with the distributor says any stock and most aftermarket manifolds fit, except for some single-plane or tunnel-ram, etc. types. If you're in doubt I'd be glad to take some measurements for you. I should mention here, I did have clearance problems with one thing; my drop-base 14" air cleaner. No big deal. A 10" one will fit, or you can use a spacer. One of those triangular foam things will fit, or you can do what I did - offset 14" base with a staggered stud.
To add, I KNOW FOR A FACT that this HEI fits with a Torker 289. The carb is VERY close, and a 14" air cleaner is a no-go, but it fits that particular single plane. Hope this helps build the knowledge base.
One thing to consider. I just bought and finished a restoration on a 4 door maverick. With that conversion I went with the HEI conversion on the L6 as well. You need to make sure you don't just hook the coil wire to the new HEI. You'll only see 7 volts at best because it is a resistance wire. I use the original coil wire to trigger a relay that is connected to a secondary fuse box that is direct wired to the battery. That way you get full 12 volts and allows the HEI system to draw the 5-8 amps needed.
Now that you have "got that out" of your system - I'm rewinding this thread a day or two, to remove all the crude/rude posts. Please continue on in a civil fashion before the "Head Cheese" gives someone a time out for bad behavior. Everyone play nice now. :Handshake