I did the cylinders in order -- 12345678. I turned the crank (set your ratchet to the "on" position) till both lifters were fully down and stayed there for several degrees of turning. That puts that cyl on the compression stroke -- both valves closed. If you follow the firing order you can save some revolutions but I just kept it simple and did the extra turns. Takes a little longer but I'm in no hurry.
got it right this time!!! I don't want to make a mistake and damage the engine. Well lets see what happens Thanks
Just torque them down, with a torque wrench, and you'll be finished. I know it's hard to believe, but that's all there is to it. I've only rotated one engine with doing it, and that was my first, since then, I just torque them down. I've changed the heads on my current engine 3 times now, just torqued them, and I was done.
You won't damage the engine if you just torque them without rotation. I like doing the rotation 'cause it lets you check for incorrect push rod length and stuck lifters.
AutoZone might have loaner torque wrenches. Not sure. If not, and you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, they show one online for $15. No doubt not the best but better than nothing. I have a 1/4" drive from HF and it seems to work OK.
so on this subject, anyone know tricks for setting lash with adjustable roller rockers? i had a spare valve cover so i cut the top off and can idle without making a mess. i set the initial close to the specs of the rockers then try to adjust the "tick tick" out with minor turns. thats with hydraulic lifters though... and im a n00b...
I think you need to compress the hydraulic lifter a little. Seems like the tapping noise might go away when the slack is taken up, before the lifter is compressed any or much. Here's what How to Rebuild Your SMALL-BLOCK FORD book says on the subject: Fully Adjustable Hydraulic -- Finish installing and adjusting a valve by running the adjusting nut down its stud until the slack is taken up in the rocker arm and pushrod. Wiggle the rocker arm to make sure its in its freest position. When the slack is taken up, give the adjusting-nut another 3/4 turn. The valve is now adjusted and you can go on to the next one. I wouldn't think the 1.7 rocker ratio vs 1.6 stock would matter much.
non-adjustable factory ( stock type components) valve lash adjustment is set with a torqe spec to insure 1) the rockers wont come loose and 2) to make sure the rocker components are drawn down (BY bleeding oil from lifters ) to the factory's pre determined component hieght, (some place in the range of the factory hydraulic lifters range) so that when the engine has oil pressure the lifter will "pump up" and take up all the slack in the valve train. the factory hydraulic lifters plunger or piston (where the push rod sits in its cuped center) has a spring under it in its well and has an oil feed hole to send oil into the well, both are to push it to the top of its range in the lifter body, the spring keeps most of the slack out of the valve train when there is no oil pressure,and oil pressure takes up the slack when running, the plunger range of travel up and down is limited , but is great enough to take out the slack in the valve train,and make up for manufacturing tolerances, and engine rebuilding, as when you surface your heads and deck your block you change the distances for the valve train components. the lifters are designed to "pump up" with oil pressure,but also bleed off oil, once the plunger reaches its range of travel. some lifters bleed off oil quickly at lower oil pressures (such as rhoads type hydraulic lifters) and wont "pump up" all the way till higher rpm/oil pressures,..... also it is a good idea to torque rockers to spec with each cyl. at tdc on compression stroke to make sure both lifters are on the base circle of the cam, as sometimes dirt or varnish will not let a used lifter bleed down and could possibly hold a valve open. (ever try and get a varnished lifter out of the bore?) this makes it is easey to see if a lifter is not bleeding down when you know the valves shouldn't be opening as you torque the rockers in this possition.( but is not mandatory as they are supposed to bleed down and a let you torque to the rockers to the factory spec.) and new lifters are able to be done either way as well, used flat tappet lifters should go back on the cam lobe they were on ,as they have a permanent relationship to that lobe (made durrring break in ,hardening,rotation ability,machine surface finnish etc.) now adjustable valvetrain hydraulic and mechanical have their own valve lash adjustment quirks...as well.
You have paint I would like to help you but I'm too far a way. Too bad WHat color do you want for you car?
