E-7 heads are still part of the project!You know buy a lil here and there, as for selling yeah i could do that.....but i would not get what i have in it and i dont think i could find another one like it.yes indeed it was a basket case when i found it, in fact i dont have any wheel time with it. i do remember my other two that only had the I-6 and they where fun to drive. im sure with everyones help at this amazing site this unemployment thing will pass and this grabber is going to be a blast!!!!!:Handshake
Yea, but only by about .020" Not really enough to affect things and easily remediated by milling the block at rebuild time. .020 adds about 4 ccs volume to the compressed figure.
This has always been a dilemma for me my chilton says 140 hp for a 74 mav 302 2V. But i have 1974 dealer tag info rating the car at 95 hp??
im just guessing that the dealer tag is showing horsepower at the tires not at the flywheel. that would add up.
I dont even know why people get so caught up in HP numbers. You dont even see peak HP during 90% of normal driving. TQ is what makes a fun street car.
I would'nt say i was caught up,more like curious! first i read the hp ratings for different years, then i wondered where i was at with my changes. i dont have access to a dyno so i have to ask the experts!
There is "brake HP", "Net HP", "Gross HP", "Taxable HP", "Rear wheel HP" and "Actual HP". If you are using it for bragging rights then use "Gross HP", If you are using it for comparison use net or rear wheel HP. If you live in a state where they tax HiPerf cars then use the taxable HP. If you are interested in the actual HP your engine produces then you can use Brake, net or flywheel HP - they are all similar - as long as you use the same exhaust in your car as you do in the test. Now if you want to compare a car's performance then use average torque and average hp over the specific rpm range in which it is operated. For most street cars that will be about 800 to 3000 RPM - some racing engines don't even make an average hundred HP in that range. That is why they make lousey street cars.
Is it possible to determine hp on what i have listed from my set up? if so, how do you determine each aspect? 1974 302 block bottom end stock 600 cfm holley cast iron intake comp cam 268H the rest is stock
Stock compression, stock heads, 268H cam, Stock four barrel intake and a slightly larger carb. Stock ignition, no head work and stock exhaust will give you about 275 to 300 hp. If you bump your compression to 9.7 - 10:1 and put a set of headers, a good exhaust and a Performer RPM intake on it you will gain another 25 - 30 hp. The cam you have has very low average torque and hp between 800 and 3000 rpm compared to one with about 210 - 214 duration. The cam is designed to get its torque and hp between 3500 and 5500. Unless you drive the car very hard or drag race you will never see the power band.
Finally! now that i have that info, let me say im looking for a nice punch at the light and still good on gas, can you recomend a cam?
I don't know man. I have that cam and I think it's a pretty good street grind. Maybe my 2400 converter helps? I don't recall it being a dog before I put that in though. I also have higher compression, 1.7 rockers, RPM intake and a double pumper... This is the cam we're talking about here, right? http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=792&sb=0
yeah i thought it would be a good cam for my set up because, down the road i want to change from the stock rear gear to 3.73's and i thought thats where i would pick up the punch. im no mr. goodwrench but i hope thats the set up for around town cruzzin!
that horsepower number (275-300) seems a little high to me for stock (e7) heads. the heads are what will truely limit the horse power potental or the motor. sure opening the valves more and longer will have an increase but there is a limit. i would expect around 250 hp 275 at best. concentrateing on the low end power potental is where you will get the best results for street driving. selecting the right cam for the rest of your parts will be key. i dont know cams so i will leave that sugestion to someone whow does.
I would say within the limits of the rest of your engine an Edelbrock PerformerPlus cam would be about perfect. #2122 - get the specs here: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/camshafts/cams_ford_sb.shtml That is very close to the custom grind that I am using in my 351W. 2 degrees less duration on the intake and a few thousandths less lift at the valve but it is real close. With 10:1 compression, Performer intake, Holley 600 cfm carb, good headers (custome tuned set) and a tuned exhaust system I got 365 hp on the dyno with 425 ft lbs of torque. The best part was I got over 400 ft lbs of torque from 2000 - 4300 rpm and over 200 hp from 2500 rpm. The average torque from 1500 - 6000 was 384 and the average hp in the same rpm band was 276. Even in the Torino at 3800 pounds it was a fun engine. I can't wait to see what it will do in a 2000 pound Muskrat!
