This is how the one goes from Speedway that Bryant posted, although to me that looks like clearance issues with the top of it hitting the floorpan Here's another way of doing it
These frame rail mounts look almost exactly like the bolt-on frame rail mounts that I have for my panhard bar. It has flanges that bolt up thru the floor into a plate in the trunk and then has bolts that go completely thu the frame rails.
The frame rail mounts for the PHB are at the bottom of the picture. I made the above comment in response to an earlier comment about the mounts needing to be welded as apposed to being bolt on. I agree that if welding is an option then the decision should be a no brainer but it can be bolted on if properly supported.
Depends on how you classify "highly modified". With my lack of fabrication experience and resources (2-car garage and jack stands) if I had know it was going to be this much work, I would not have done it. From side to side, the mav is about 1/4 inch narrower than the Mustang so I had to cut all tubes down an 1/8th inch from each end and reweld using internal plugs. The subframe connectors were the most modified. I basically had to completely rebuild the front framerails and subframe connectors. The front leafspring mounting area is another section that is very different. It needs the brackets cut down to fit the mav floor pan. I used the stock mustang rear end housing configuration with it shortened to the Mav length. I was able to do this based on the assumption that the Mustang Leaf Spring pads are the same width apart as the Mav. It was close. The trailing arms lined up almost perfectly. Speaking of the trailing arms, I had to lengthen them by almost an inch. The shortened housing caused problems for my Wilwood brakes resulting in more mods to the PHB bracket that is welded to the rear end for caliper clearance. Here is the pic of the system after mods and before I reinstalled it. The subframe connectors have not been modified yet. That was done after the suspension was installed and the car was running. They had to be shortened by about a foot.
oh yeah and with this kit you can basically keep stock gas tank and also not cut out the back seats right?
well im really interested in this kit, im sure that I can take it to a chassis shop that I know and they'll do it no problem, problem is that I know they might charge me an arm and a leg
Right... sort of. I had to make a couple cuts in the seat pan on either side of the drive shaft tunnel to have clearance for the pinion support bars since my car rides soo low. I you are going to maintain stock ride hight, you might have a problem with shock length. You'll likely need longer shocks than come with the kit. The maverick frame rails are higher in relation to the lower frame than the Mustangs therefor so is the upper shock mount.
you can get the kit that i posted and use most of the pices to build one that goes behind the diff. with a watts link you can stay with using the leafspings and stock shock locations. just puting a watts link on will drasticly improve the stearing responce, stability in corners and pradictability in corners. you will want to lower the car. you can do this with lower blocks or custom leaf springs. try contating espo spring about haveing some made. may also want to talk to calvert racing about there leaf springs. they are intended for drag race use but they may have some ideas for road raceing.
no im actually going to lower the car pretty low, going with ccw wheels so I definetly want this kind of look....... and of course I want the car to perform well
I don't know if anyone's seen these, but they could be adapted to Mavericks, with some work. http://www.streetortrack.com/Fays2-Vintage-Watts-Link-pr-24433.html