stall converted suggestions and NOS question

i have a small 2000 stall now and i am building a 347 for the mav since my main bearings went out. i was wondering should i go with a bigger stall since i am adding a lot more power to the engine? i was thinking a 3000stall. plus i am looking to put NOS on the car only for when i go to the tracks but i dont want a big shot i was looking at the sneaky pete system but i am not sure yet. i am new at this so please all opinnions are welcome

 

The tight converter will work good with the n2o and the 347 as long as the cam doesnt get to big. But, a looser converter will make it quicker almost regardless. Its all in the purpose the car will be used for.

 

mainly the car will be drivin daily but once a month take it out to the tracks. the cam is a 262 comp flat tappet i didnt want to go with a roller

 

Depending on what your looking to do, you may want to dump the sneaky pete idea. Sneaky pete systems only make a difference of .1 to .3 difference in times, in my opinion its not worth it. Its made for bracket racing looking to recover some lost time. The main problem with sneaky pete is that its not a full system in that it doesnt add fuel to offset the nos its adding, so its always going to push things on the lean side when you use it.

As for the stall and without getting into all the different ways they measure stall, you can probably get away with a lot more than just 3000. The numbers are just guide lines. Just for talk sake, my experience in building lighter cars is that the non-custom made converters seem to be based on 3500-3800lb cars. The biggest variable is going to be the amount of horsepower/torque your making and the vehical weight. For a street/strip small block and lighter cars I have always had good luck with a 9.5" converter. I had a 408w that was completely streetable and it had a 4800 stall, but it was in a 1980lb car so it shows how weight effects the numbers. Wild guess without knowing everything about your motor, 347 and a 3100lb car I would say look for something around 3000 to 3600.

 

if you only want a small shot then get a powershot (125hp) or a super powershot (75-150hp)

 

Yeah i looked at the sneaky pete because its a small shot. I want to also run a hidden system i dont like all those hoses but will thT work on a carb? As far as the motor we are hoping to get atleast 450hp and tons of torque. My intake is a performer air gap with 600 4barrel holley. Head are ported machine cast iron. Cant afford dart heads yet.

 

i am looking to run in the 10s

 

Thats going to be hard to hit with a mostly street driven car, iron heads, flat tappet 262, and sneaky pete system. Like 408 maverick said, try looking at a nos system in the 125-250hp range


Just for fun I ran the numbers on the virtual dyno software I have and coming up with 380hp and 417 torque.

 

Gonna need a whole different plan to run 10's.

 

agreed, and your best bet about the converter is not guess what stall works best but to call one of the manufactors and tell them your set up and plans. they can then custom build you one . its cheaper than buying an off shelf and it not work and you have to buy another. be ready to answer a lot of questions when you call them. they will want to know everything from car wieght to gears , tire size and if nos or n/a.
just my 2 cents

 

Well i think i can pull it off barely getting in the 10s but i do have big heads so we will see hopefully soon

 

Your gonna need another 600 Holley sitting beside the one you already have to go 10's

 

450 HP is pushing the limits of the block especially with N2O on top off that.

 

If you want a custom convertor you can fill out a spec sheet online to get a quote a find out what stall is recommended for your application. See below. Good luck.

http://fticonverters.com/BuildSheet.aspx