Yeah, I know. I did start the engine and run it for a while with the socket in there. Heard clink, clink, clunk as it made its way to the bottom of the front sump. But, I wouldn't rev it up or drive the car with the socket in there.
I soak them for a week and push down on the top as well. I took my old motorcraft dist apart and used the shaft on it for my oil pump primer and used a corded drill. You will want to spin it counterclock wise for it to prime. Just leave the valve covers off and watch for oil comming out. Also use some zinc oil additivie for the intial brake in period and after the oil change add some more.
Thanks for the info guys! So it looks like I just pull the lifters out, alil PB if necissarry. Now, the bottom half of the engine was just built by someone and hasn't been run yet.. will the PB blaster degrease the lifters or other parts in a bad way?
If you're reusing the lifters, be sure the plungers in the tops of the lifters are free. You should be able to push them down. I had several that were frozen in place. Soaked them in 50:50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone and still could not free them up so I had to replace them.
I haven't checked to see if they're stuck or not, but the whole engine except the heads is brand new. Definitely re-using the lifters! haha Might not need to do all this if the builder did it, but I just wanna be safe. I keep checking more and more stuff, I might as well have built it myself lol
If you have a new cam you should also replace the lifters. (Not sure if roller lifters can be reused with new cam??) Flat tappets and cam wear in together and should be replaced together.
Yea, everything is new. The cam, lifters, pistons, fresh machine work. Someone else built the whole thing new. I'm just trying to check everything I can without tearing apart the motor. Make sure everything's primed n such too . I don't think they are roller lifter.. I don't think anything about my engine is roller. Could be wrong tho
"Yea, everything is new. The cam, lifters, pistons, fresh machine work." i thought everything was...new... if not they need to go back in the same hole they came out of...
Pretty sure all of us here know some what how to read. Some ask questions here for the camaraderie. Some ask questions they all ready know the answers to to gage another's knowledge. All these Q&A's help the rest of us understand More. Thanks to all. Beer
never set up lifters before. They could be something that is adjusted individually, or only affected by wear. The articles I found only said to put them in the same hole they came out of.. Thanks for the info!
"Back in the same hole" is for the case where you're re-installing lifters that were used in the engine before. Since you have new lifters, you can put them anywhere. Here are some images of roller lifters. http://www.google.com/search?q=roll...LQIInZgAetyfGOCA&ved=0CCQQsAQ&biw=902&bih=446 Flat tappets don't have the rollers on the end. You would really benefit from this book. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-Block-Covers-Years-Models/dp/B004X82U58/ref=sr_1_20?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1312825799&sr=1-20"]Amazon.com: How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford, Covers All Years & Models, 221, 255, 260, 289, HP289, 302, Boss 302 & 351W: HP Books: Books[/ame] Unfortunately, Amazon doesn't have this old one in stock but they have a couple of newer editions. The newer ones probably cover whatever year engine you're working on. I've used this book three times and avoided many mistakes. There are some little but important things like which bolts need sealer or how to check your push rod length that you might not get right without a guide. If you pick up one and follow it closely you should get a good result. Do you know if the valve springs in whatever heads you're using are correct for the cam? Valve springs for roller tappets are much stronger than those for flat tappets and will destroy a flat tappet cam.
Hmm. I don't.. I might have to trust the person that built it on that one. I don't know what cam is in it
I'll go against what some have told you here. I never fill a hydraulic lifter before adjusting the valves. It's a lot easier to set the preload if you don't have to squeeze the oil back out of the lifter. Used to be Crane recommended against it on their web site due to customers bending push rods while initially adjusting the valves. When you pre-lube the engine by spinning the oil pump before startup you will fill the lifters then. Just watch for oil to appear at each rocker arm. If it's roller lifters I soak the rollers for awhile but leave the body empty.
Just thought I'd add this. It seems to be a really good thread on adjusting valves: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=46492&highlight=adjusting+valves
