What rated PSI hose should be used for a transmission line. I have steel running from the radaitor all the way up and steel lines on the tranny but need about a foot of rubber hose to connect the two? I just learned a valuable lesson that not all rubber hose will work and had to clean up half the street.
If your gonna use steel, use steel all the way. If your gonna use rubber use rubber all the way. Steel + Rubber have always leaked for me.
Mine always leak for some reason, I double clamp also and flare the end. I don't get a dribble leak but it still leaks. Since then I just run straight steel lines or full rubber and it doesn't leak at the fittings or anywhere else.
Just installed a transmission cooler with rubber lines over cut steel lines. No leaks initially. Rubber line came with the cooler. Think I'll add another clamp to each joint.
I think you can bulb the end of a tube by using the double flare adaptor on a non-flared end. I seem to remember doing that to a P/S cooler line...
Well im kinda stuck, I need some rubber lines to get to the muffler shop and from the muffler shop to inspection shop then I can get complete steel lines.
I was going to suggest this, I've done it many times over the years, with no issues. Fuel injection hose, with fuel injection clamps.
Early Falcons and Mustang had a few inches of rubber on the lines at the radiator. The rubber was slipped over a bulb.
i have all steel lines running to my tranny cooler except a 4 inch chunk of steel braided on either side to attach it to the cooler. 1 clamp each side and no leaks..just buy quality clamps and they can go tight as hell.
I don’t know the reason but I can take an educated guess on why they changed. The fewer parts you put on a car means less overhead cost to assemble a car...more money in the company’s pocket. By eliminating 4 hose clamps, 2 short lengths of hydraulic hose and then paying a guy factory wages to put the hose and clamps together cost more than it does by making the tube a few inches longer with a flare fitting on the end. I’m guessing the barb fitting in the radiator cost close to the same as a threaded fitting when you buy them by the train load. I’m sure the guy who was putting hoses and clamps together now has time to put another part on the car while its rolling down the assembly line…saving the company another dollar in labor and benefits.
Excellant explanation Many parts changes were done for the same reason. Like the change to the 50 oz/in cranks in the 5.0. There was about a 15 pound weight savings there, multiply that times a million or more and that really adds up.
Im guessing I can just go to Oreilly's and pick up some rubber transmission line? I'd rather not have problems with it leaking, so I will go to the transmission shop down the street and have them fix the lines properlly. Hope no cops are around when I go to get this done.
One thing I have found out is since the output for the cooler runs from the trans oil pump it can develop a lot of pressure! Since the whole system is supposed to just recirculate the fluid, there should be no real pressure involved. This is true for a perfect scenario. What happens when you use a smaller inside diameter fitting on the return line, or have a kink or restrictive bend in the return line? You guessed it! A mess! Using hose is fine, but - - -, make sure it is rated for transmission duty, bulb the ends of your lines, no kinks or sharp bends in the lines, and finally, make sure your fittings all have the same inside diameter! If you can't get fittings with the same inside diameter, put the smaller one on the outlet port of the transmission. This way you won't have any pressure building up in the system! One more thought, it wouldn't hurt to flush out your cooler ( whether it's an aftermarket or in your radiator tank ) while you have it open. Lots of crud can get in there over the years!
