I will check and fix everything you guys mentioned tonight, but I was just thinking about the kick down lever that I removed since im using the modulator only, when I first tested the tranmssion I put the shifter on it and tested it on jack stands it went up to 80mph and shifted all gears no problem. I put a washer and the same bolt back on where the kick down lever was tightened it pretty tight. Is it possible that its stuck in the activate position to change gears all the time and causing it not to go into third?
Went out and got some new hose for the modulator. I forgot I used an old house from the steel line to the intake, it was very squishy and dried up. I replaced all my modulator rubber line with some heavy duty vacuum line and put clamps on each end so it has a good vacuum. Havent had a chance to gap the spark plugs or mess with the carb. I always get stuck doing something else then its too late to fire it up. Hopefully today or tomorrow I will be able to gap them. Also my kickdown was stuck in the engage position, dont know if that would hurt anything or make it not shift into high gear.
With the kick-down in the "engage" position (fully depressed) it would not shift into 3rd until after 60 mph. (more or less depending on a lot of variables).
I got my spark plugs gapped to 045. Replaced the modulator hose. Connected my electric choke and adjusted my air/fuel mixture to 2 1/5 turns. I also unplugged the top vacuum port on the front/top of the carb, I also noticed that there was one vacuum port on the front right hand side that wasnt plugged next to the air/fuel screws, I plugged it. Didnt get a chance to fire it up yet because its too loud. Is it possible that the one in front is causing my startup issues? My car is a pain to start, I have to crank it at least 5 times and put my foot almost to the floor and rev it up high to get it to stay on for a few minutes and then it runs fine? Any ideas?
the 2 1/2 turns out is just a starting point.with the car running you should crank them in.when the car starts to run bad stop and go the other way till it revs up alittle.it is best to use a vacume gage to set the A/F ratio.with the dist.set the timming with the vacume hose off.then put it back on,rev it up and see what the total timming is.it should be somewhere around 28-30deg.if you are running good gas you can raise it up some more.{i run 40deg but thats with cam2}
I have an electric choke. Its suposed to be 3/16 open when cold and when the spring heats up fully open. I just got finished driving it and it ran fine, but still cannot go passed 60, the car just dies. after the first couple of times it died, it would start and I could drive again, so I stayed at 50 to keep it from dieing. Well it died at 50 and I pulled off the road. Tried starting it and it would go anywhere as soon as I hit the gas barely the car would die. So I had to hook up the chain and tow it home. Im getting a little frustrated with the car. At this point I dont know what it is and about ready to sell the car. What possibly could be the issue with this?
Im running regular unleaded. I will test the air fuel mixture again. It seems no matter how far out or in it runs the same it nevers slows down or speeds up. I cant connect the vacuum advanced because it runs like crap when I do. Ive tested the spark port when first turning on and it has vacuum, which from what ive been told shouldnt happen right away until you start going faster. Im lost and this point and not sure what else to try.
starting to sound like fuel pump volume low or crap in the tank getting sucked up to the fuel strainer reducing fuel flow!
I have a brand new tank, new sending unit, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, remanufactured carb. I've sprayed around the carb no leaks, plugged every port on the carb. I don't understand why it won't run. I guess the fuel pump could be bad I did have issues with it at first until I pushed down on it really hard and pumped it by hand to make it work.
