Yea am not going to boost it or add nos. I just want a good strong motor for now and I have a fox body 5.0 am going to build slowly as money is available. I just want a strong 280 to 300 hp motor for now .I want to get this motor in then do body and paint the swap to 5 speed then by the time all of that is done I will have no car payment and will be able to dump money in to a motor. I all ready got disc brakes from a granada and 9 inch rear end. So I got alot to do for not and I thank everyone for there input and if I get anymore question I will post for the help.
Just one further comment if you plan and spinning the motor over 6500rpm. Go with an internal balance vs. the external balance...................IMHO
I've never built an "all forged rotating assembly" engine and I've never blown up an engine because I didn't. This includes 3-4 390's, 2 427 Fords, a half dozen 302's and a couple 351C's and a 400M. All had cast stock Ford cranks, all had stock rods (which as I said before are all forged by Ford) most had cast pistons, except for one 390 and the 427's. My 331 has a cast crank and forged pistons and rods, it's held up just fine for the part 7 years. The cast crank has never been a handicap. I also do not abuse my engines, like those who I've witnessed who've destroyed engines do.
Going by what ur intended hp desires are, I wud think a forged rotating assembly wud be way-over-the-top. If ur not thinking an all out competetion "only" engine; I view that type of engine as a waste of money.
Excellent and an important point. I too, have done the labor and we all know that no motor is bullet-proof - regardless how it is built or who it is that builds it. As I'd stated; "You may want to consider spending the $$$ and go with a forged rotating assembly." and "If he decides to increase hp in the future." This exchange has enlightened him on his options no matter which way he goes. I'm forging! :Handshake To quell curiousity, what has your current power plant dyno'd?
As for me... Im building a stroked 302, 347 or 332, I dont know yet. But... what I have learned from all the sages on this site, is that whatever I do I will go with forged and zero balanced. I know myself, I will follow the thrill. Im gonna spray worse than a rabid skunk. I only get one chance to do this and I dont want to take 3 steps forward and 2 steps back. IMHO:bananaman
I've never had the opportunity to dyno it. There aren't many around here. It run's 13 flat @107 in the 1/4 on steet tires with 3.50's in the rear. Topend is 140. It's good enough for me.
I have no idea. I've seen similar builds in a magazine that were dynoed and based on that, it would be in the 400-450 hp range at the crank. It's tame enough for the street, yet still has a nasty lope idling at a redlite. Other guys rolling their windows down at a redlite, is a common occurence. Power comes in at 1500 and pulls to a bit past 6500, It will rev farther though
As with all things automotive........"it depends." Should he plan on this just being your average daily driver type deal then he could easily get away with cast or hypereutectic pistons. Even some performance applications can utilize hypereutectic pistons. They allow a tighter piston to wall setting for less noise and better oil control. Were he to want to push this thing in the future (which I don't believe he does seeing as he plans "to go all stock except pistons, cam, timing chain") he should naturally go with a forged piston. For what I'm hearing from his few posts I'd say he could use the hypereutectic pistons with a prepped stock rod with good bolts and a stock crankshaft. Spend the money on quality machine work instead of trick parts that won't do anything in the bottom end. With a KB style flat top, thinner head gaskets, and some milling to the heads he can easily go 9.5:1 to 9.7:1 with a decent street-style camshaft. Speaking of which, if he is just going to port the stock heads then I would not recommend any of the single pattern Comp cams. A dual pattern cam with roughly .020" more lift and 10 more degrees on the exhaust side greatly aids exhaust scavenging. Something like .470-ish intake/.490-ish exhaust with duration (@.050" lift) of 216-220 on the intake and 224-228 on the exhaust. Something like a 110-112 centerline would work well too. Couple all this with a Weiand Stealth or Edelbrock Performer RPM (or an Air Gap) with a 570-600 ish Holley carb.
As far as the cylinder heads.......if the OP keeps the original heads I'd suggest going with 1.84" intakes and 1.54" exhaust valves. No sense in going to 1.94/1.60 since the ports won't support that much flow anyway. These are an OE replacement for the '69/70 351 Windsor valves so they're relatively inexpensive. Even if you purchase the 5000 series stainless valves from Ferrea you'd only spend around $175 or so. Screw in rocker studs and an inexpensive set of roller rockers. Again, spend the real money on quality machine work.
Really no point in keeping the stock heads today if you're going to spend money on new valves, seats, guides, springs, screw in studs etc. With all the better aftermarket choices out there now, it's really not cost effective to keep the stock 60's and 70's heads. Swapping on a low buck set of E7 or GT40's that need little or no work would be much better alternative to his 70's heads too.
