Just that i've heard tons of things..some interesting, some more on the stupid side...soooo, here we go. What break-in oil did you run? if any, how did you run it when it first started up...after a little running time did you punch on it and bring the Rpm's up? or did you baby it to XXX amount of miles? just whatever method you used to break in your engine i'm interested to hear as i will be putting mine in soon here. iv'e probably missed things but let's hear how you did yours!
My new Cleveland has Joe Gibbs break in oil in the pan. I'm not sure how it will be broke in as it hasn't been run yet. The builder will come up the garage and get it going for me and get the cam broken in. I'm hoping for sometime this summer for that to happen. Until then he tells me to keep it sealed and don't mess with it.
i asked the builder of my 347 the question... how many miles to break it in?...he pointed to the bay in his shop where he installs his race engines. then pointed to the building just outside the door. he said he backs them out of one door and into the other one and that's where he dynos it....about 30-35 ft. soooooo it was tire smoke for mine coming out of my shop...I
On my roller cam engine, I put in cheap 30 weight, and ran it at varying speeds from highway speed down to 30 mph cruising speed, for about 300 miles. Then I dropped the oil and filter, put in what I plan to run from here on out (10w30 Motorcraft synthetic blend) and a new motorcraft filter and just drive it the way I want to. If it was a flat tappet cam, I would have done the same, but used comp cam additive, and a diesel oil with high zinc content. There is also a separate breakin procedure for flat tappet cams, where it is recommended that you start the engine and immediately get it up over 1500-2000 rpms then varying rpms and not let it go below that 2000 for 20 mins or so (from memory, may not be the exact numbers, but those instructions are easy to find with an internet search). There are many break-in procedures, and each has their merits. Racers often do as 71gold stated, but most purely "racing" engines rarely last the 100-150k miles that typical daily drivers want them to run for.
Like Scooper mentioned it varies with what type of camshaft you have. With a roller cam there is very little to do for break-in. Flat tappet cams require proper break-in.
Good friend of mine is a race engine builder and he runs all engines on the dyno no matter what,flat tappet or roller,and all get the same run in time.20 minutes at 2000 rpm with a high zinc oil,then a light pull (4000 rpm) then a full pull.
Depends on what cam AND rings. Moly-faced rings seat almost as soon as the key is turned, iron and steel take longer, chrome takes forever.
First, it really depends on what kind of rings are installed on the pistons as to how you should initally break-in the motor...........when I was young we didn't have Moly rings...........only chrome and cast.......and the number of chassis or engine dyno's were almost non-existant or way to expensive for us "shadtree mechanics". Today the best way to break a motor (non-stock) is on an engine dyno as you can apply the needed load and have all the right equipment to monitor air fuel ratios and also the motor is out in the open so you can spot any leaks quickly, or other issues. The past 4/5 motors I have put together have either been on engine dyno's or chassis dyno's.........and the "refreshened 408" for the Maverick will go on an engine dyno within the next month. Nowdays I would be surprised if most people don't use Moly. Moly rings seat in about the same time it takes to break-in your flat tappet cam. When you get ready to start the first thing you should do is prime the oil system and make sure the oil pressure is up and you are getting oil to the rockers. I have used a 15/22" fan infront of the radiator just to try and keep the temperature down during the 20 minute break-in just to keep the engine a little cooler...................high temperature during break-in can cause the rings to not seat. As for oil, I would use a good grade (read: not cheap) break-in oil.......and it doesn't have to be single viscosity, it can be 10/30, 5/30, 10/40 or ???? But if you have spent your hard earned money on this motor I'd use a good break-in like Royal Purple, Valvoline, etc., just don't use synthetic............as least for the first 500/1500 miles. Start the motor (it always helps to have a couple of buddies), bring the rpm up to 2000, keep it there for 20 minutes, just don't let the motor idle. You can check for leaks, any strange noises..............and if you do have a leak or there is a strange noise shut the motor down AT ONCE, don't let it idle! After this 20 minute cam/ring break-in shut the motor down and let it cool completely to ambient temp. Again check for leaks. I have always changed the filter at this point because of the assembly lube, but you can choose to not do this, it's your motor. The first drive is probably about 20 minutes, and I never take it out on the freeway and never put it in 4th if it's a 4spd, or 5th...................you want to keep the rpm's up, and don't lug the motor. If you get stuck in traffic or a long light........put the car in neutral and keep the rpms up. Also while you are driving vary the speed............from 20mph take it up to 40/50 and then take your foot off the throttle and let it get down to 20...........continue doing this and drive it home...............let it cool completely before you start it up again. I would check for leaks, maybe check the torque on the head bolts, if you have headers re-torque them..............now I am assuming you have already set the timing when you were breaking in the cam.................take it out again and increase the rpm/mph to say 65 then drop down to 30mph............doing this for another 20 minutes..............then take it home and let it completely cool. (Now this is up to you, but I have always done this.............when the engine is hot I changed the oil and filter.............looking for anything in the oil that might be shinny....................put new oil and filter on and let it completely cool down. At this point it's really up to you and assuming everything is fine....temperature/oil pressure, etc..................the next time I took it out you just want to make sure you don't let the engine idle..............then go out and have fun making tire smoke.............Change the oil and filter at 500 miles and then every...................3000 or so. This is just the way I have been doing it for a long time...................and knock on wood I have never scattered a motor..........on the street or strip......IMHO
X2!!!! No sense babying the thing for a week if it's going to break, break it now before all the tools are put away.
My simple method. ***I run at 2,500-3,000 RPM's with the Cheapest oil (30 weight) money can buy for about 8-10 minutes to let the cam break in just right. ***I change the oil to a 40 weight. ***I drive the motor (gently) for about 100 miles for things to settle. ***After 100 miles on the engine I treat it like anything else. If its for a drag car, build it and haul @$$. It'll be re-rebuilt soon anyway.
I put in a zinc oil additive with 10w30 and held the idle at 3500rpm for 10 minutes. Then drive it for 2,000 miles and dont go past 80. After the 2,000 I will change the oil and abuse it.
alright let me ask you guys this..in any way is it possible to do this without driving it around and just bringing rpm's up and down at my house? because i will have to put insurance on it (not too big of a deal) but it will be running open headers as well because well simply i have not got the engine in yet to take it in to the muffler shop, which i don't think would take me too long to find myself with a noise violation ticket and maybe even a V.I.
