I have been working on replacing my electric fuel pump and old braided hose system with a new simpler mechanical pump system. since i took off the nitrous i had alot of loose ends to change anyways.
Bryant I got the bracket and started mounting the slave today, and go tthe reservoir mounted. Now I need to start plumbing the hydraulics. Dave, the hoses are pure stainless used in the aircraft industry. something like 3000 psi, kind of over kill, And the **** is a bitch to bend and flare. I had some a friend make it from templates I made with 3/16 brake line. I was pretty close with the templates but had to shorten one hose and flare it myself, I broke my flare tool, another one wouldnt hold it, had to borrow a fancy more expensive flare tool from a guy at work. I still need to get a 1/8 plug for the regulator. I couldnt mount the gauge on the regulator cause it would have been too hard to read. SO I moved it inline on the hose.
Looks good..... Yeah that stainless can be a bitch to bend, we use it all the time where I workin 3/16 through 5/8..... For 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 we have special benders for each that are about $300 each, and we have some severe duty flaring tool too.....
Looks great! Is stainless a pain to work with for smaller lines, like brake lines? I wonder if my Matco flaring tool could do SS brake lines...
The smaller stuff shouldnt be so bad. But I wouldnt put the extra money into stainless brake tubes. Nobody sees it and the steel ones work just fine. Back when I did my disc brake swap and when doing a 4 wheel disc swap on my Mustang I bent and flared alot of 5/16 hose. And with as much a pain that was I wouldnt want to make it more difficult by using stainless. I did find out a QUALITY flaring tool makes a world of diffence. This kind of tool would not hold the tube because the clamp bar wouldnt hold it tight enough. It actually bows out in the middle where the tube is because the tube is so strong. And this is what I found works good. A tool that secures the clamp bar and squeezes it in at the position you are working in.
Eastwood also sells one they say will do stainless lines. SS is much harder to work with, but it sure looks nice!
I was planning on buying all SS replacements from Right Stuff Detailing. The only tubing I will need to create is the adjustable prop valve connections and some minor mods to the axle tube brake lines for the rear discs. Originally I painted all my steel brake lines on the firewall, which ofcourse the paint came off shortly after. So by going SS, I would not have to worry about it. This is my flaring kit: http://matcotools.com/catalog/product/DFK93/PREM-DOUBLE-FLARING-KIT/
That kit may work with the 5/16 lines. I doubt it would have worked on the 3/8 stuff. And for the much $$$ I would have thought it would be the better design. the Ridged tool I listed in the first post can be bought for $60. The design is much better. the clamp the goes over the rail locks into notches at each size and applies pressuse right at the size you are working with. This dosnt allow the rail to bow and then the tube you are trying to flare is slipping down.
Gotcha. I have used this plenty of times for steel with no problems. Never used it with SS, so I will keep a picture of your flaring tool as a reference. Thanks!
I have the Snap-On equivalent of the Matco set mentioned. It works great for steel lines but stainless lines are much harder. That tool is designed to "bite" into the metal and the few times I tried it, the tool just pushed the line down instead of actually flaring it especially on the second stage of the double flare.
Id like to get that fuel line that goes along the frame and back to the tank. Do you remember how much that was? And did you get a new grommet where is comes through the fenderwell? It looks new and I need to make or get something for that.