thanks! but hum no bypass eh? also that pump comes out really far. i wonder if it would clear my blower belt. :x
So, why do you need a bypass? Most electric pumps come out that far, although there may be one or two that may be more suitable for a Show Car. I like to keep my drag Maverick nice looking.................but it won't win any beauty contests. Thanks for the comments on the "tow vehicle"............ http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/bigblockchevyelectricwaterpump-1-1.aspx
what i would like to know is so how many guys out there drive it on the street with no bypass. also people have to remember this is a blown car it gets hot! i mean i guess once the thermostat is open there is no real need for a bypass. the car with the blower i drive on the street, it is no drag car... IMO is slow as hell. lol! so the by-pass is preferred. i am just looking for something that will keep the thing cool during the summer in traffic. i don't want to put it on my drag car since well if it ain't broke don't fix it theory...lol! though i do drive that on the street too.
uh ok im lost whats the or whats a bypass? Im picturing a vent hose on radiator, or its that little hole under the water pump that only has water come out when pump fails
In My Humble Opinion there is no need for a bypass regardless. As for the thermostat............do you use a 3.99 one or a good high flow one like; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-301/ Not trying to be smart, just wondering why you motor runs hot. I drove my 12sec Comet on the street without a bypass for couple of years, also my 65 Mustang Convert with stout 289. If you block the bypass you will actually gain upwards of 20% cooling efficency. As for blown motors running hot, had a (very stout 300hp Ford Flathead) with Weiand 141 roots that never got over 190, even in 100+ degree weather. Just a question...........do you have a "boost retard" on your setup? Are you running an automatic, and if so do you use the bottom of the radiator for cooling the oil.................do you have a oil cooler for the automatic? Do you have a stock radiator or new one like Champion? Do you have a remote oil filter or just the stock one on the block? Just asking questions, not trying to be a smart ass.
Read this thread about electric water pumps as we talk alot about the "Bypass". http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=85735 All of my experience (80%) comes from practicle knowledge, not just sitting down in front of the computer or reading books (not to say there is anything wrong with that), but actually going out and trying to do what I think will work after doing my research, sometimes it works, and other times not. I've been working on cars (and had some great mentors along the way) before a lot the people on this forum were in diapers......again, not trying to be a wise ass, just telling you what I have done. I would be first to say I was wrong, and have said it on this forum at least once or twice.
I'm not sure I've read the thread that olerodder has linked us to in his last post but I will after I post this. From what I understand the only purpose for the bypass is to get heat to the heater core as quickly as possible before the thermostat opens up in cold weather. Am I wrong?????
The only purpose for the bypass is to circulate water while the thermostat is closed.....................
Well after reading all of te links inside of links..... Looks like I was wrong but either way the bypass can be eliminated.
From what info I have found in the old automotive school books I have from the early 90's and new model training covering the changes in these systems, the main reason a bypass is needed is to provide coolant flow when the thermostat is closed. The purpose of this is to allow the coolant that is in the block and heads to warm up evenly, preventing hotspots and thermostatic cycling that occurs when the water reaches thermostat opening temperature. I look at it this way, when the thermostat is closed, the water pump is pumping but coolant is not really moving. There are small pockets of circulation in the cooling system due to convection, but it isn't moving around to any great degree. The coolant in the hotter areas are getting hotter tend to form steam pockets that causes this flow but the water pump is effectively cavitating because the coolant isn't allowed to flow from the pressure side of the pump to the inlet in any way. A side effect of thermostat bypass coolant flow is that the heater works faster because there is even warming of the coolant. Quicker warmup also reduces emissions. Does it HAVE to have a bypass, no, but would it work better with one, in my opinion, yes. Olerodder, I do respect your experience and your opinion so I'm not being argumentative or saying you're wrong. I have also driven Fords for about 26 years and I have been a mechanic for 19. I'm no spring chicken either, I just have a different opinion. That said, FoMoCo doesn't spend money on anything not necessary. If they could eliminate the complicated bypass systems on the mod motors and the duratec engines, I bet they would if they could. Those systems use a 1.5" bypass system and remote return side thermostat that make ours look like a joke. On a side note, a cooling system without a bypass or a thermostat bleed is a nightmare to bleed the air pockets out of. THIS I know for a fact. If you do eliminate the bypass, I would provide a way to bleed the air out ahead of the thermostat, such as a draincock on the heater outlet fitting.
Wouldn't drilling the hole in the top of the thermostat like someone suggested help bleed the air out naturally?
Yes, I think I did mention that in one of the linked threads now that you mention it. The high performance thermostats don't have enough flange area to do this was the reason I brought that up. And a 3/8" hole could alleviate some pressure allowing a small amount of coolant flow with the thermostat closed.
I am not a mechanic..........and probably couldn't be because I'd never make any money, because I take too long to do things and could never do a job according to the flat rate manual...........but I have been working on street cars/hotrods/and drag cars for over 40 years, now with that said I will not beat a dead horse as we've gone over this before...........so I will agree to disagree. The thermal shock issue is...............well, I think is overrated (one of the reasons I don't run one on the race car/just a restrictor and electric water pump I can control manually), but with that said I had a friend that worked on the SHO project in the early 90's when Yamaha shipped the motors back to Ford for testing and although Ford put a rev limiter on the motor.............(my friend ran one of the dyno's at Ford) he told me after their testing was completed they ran the little motor at wide open throttle for a long time(maybe 15/20 minutes)...............finally got tired of the sound the motor made at 12,000rpm.........and since it didn't blow........they shut if off. What I'm trying to say is that the engineering side of any company (and especially auto manufactures) making a product that must be used by millions of people have to make compromises.........some of these are good and useful..............and some aren't, but you have to make a product that can be used by these millions of people without any issues......or you will go broke.........getting back to the thermal shock/steam pockets............well, I've never had any issues with this or bleeding the system of air on street cars or race cars........and again.................these are my own observations from doing this on the street and at the track...............................:Handshake
