You can buy thermostats that already have holes...........and the holes basically let trapped air behind the thermostat return to the radiator....which will help lessen the possiblity of creating steam pockets................but there is no need to drill a hole that large.......IMHO
I agree, I suggested the hole for the ones that don't have the bleed hole and you are probably right about the size. In retrospect, I might not get any bigger than 1/4", but even a 1/8" hole would allow steam relief. ...and if I were building a race engine, I would probably do what you have recommended.:Handshake
Here is a link to some hipro thermostats, and the holes are 3/16th of an inch..............don't think I would go any bigger than that as you just want it big enough to let air bubbles/pockets out and not much water. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EMP-301/
no that is a legit question. i do have a boost retard and when hot i just back off the timing but that an only do so much. yep it is an auto but since radiator is aftermarket the tranny lines run to a tranny cooler. the radiator is a griffin 2 core with one inch cores. oil filter is stock location. when i mean hot, i mean in traffic in hot day 90 plus given as long is when i worry. as i keep moving i am fine as long as RPMs stay below 2500 crusing. but say if i am staging in a car show the car gets up there. 185ish and will keep climbing given 185 is nothing these days but i have noticed a lot of water pukes into the over flow tank. given it has not over flowed but with a decent 16lbs cap it seems to be a lot. there is only one time it puked that was on the fwy for like hour straight at 3k at 100 plus weather when i got off the fwy it puked. again this only happen when it is extremely hot. but then again summer is when you most likely have these issues and when you drive the car. also when the car was dynoed it always hit best power at about 165 sounds cold but it always hit best power then. so i am presuming without a bypass we are running into water pocket issues and what not correct? now that is what i am talking about! i presume you tapped it.
Some overflow is by design especially with downflow radiators. It allows steam and air pockets to purge and the liquid to be drawn back into the system when it cools a little. How big is your overflow catch can?
i didnt tap any thing. thats a miziere water pump. it has two ports on top. i think they are -8 or -10 female threads like you find on areomotoive pumps and filters. they come with plugs in them but you can put nipples on them for the bypass and the heater hoses. that pump was on my car when you saw it at knotts last year. i bet you can use your super industry connections to get a killer deal on one of these pumps.
right this does suck back it in after it cools down. not to sure how much to be honest maybe 64 oz at most. i mean most days it is fine. but all it takes is one time. i mean maybe i should just let me motor blow up. been wanting to do another motor after this one goes but this thing don't wanna die! lol! motor has at least 45k to 50k on it and it is a HARD 45k!!! lol! ok awesome! ok then i just solved all my problems there. you have a part number at all? that would be great if you do.... and yes i hope i can use some connection somewhere. lol! i remember seeing it on your car last year and i think i spoke to you about it but i didn't know that most didn't come with an over flow.
ok never Bryant i found it http://www.meziere.com/ps-1110-1078-wp311c.aspx it that the one? that will work right .... because... i know that late model 5.0 water pumps actually go the other direction for the serpentine belt thus making it flow the correct direction. does that matter on the electric pump? i don't want to think to hard... lol! i don't think it would make a difference right? since it is turing on tis own direction less the belt.
64oz is a lot. I think you have something going on there. If you can't find anything with normal testing, leaks, air pockets, etc, you might want to do a chemical block test. That Meziere pump is a kick butt pump though!
I certainly don't want anyone to feel like I am being Mr. Know-it-All or condisending, because as everyone can plainly see...........I built a motor and expected close to 700HP and only got 640HP............Ok, that's only 10% error.........but in building motors that's HUGE! Anyway, when looking at a radiator just remember that car radiators do not radiate anything, they work from convection......hot fluid coming in from the top hose(s) and runs down the tubes/fins toward the bottom and as it travels down it is cooled by air coming through the fins/tubes. One very important thing to remember is that the higher the fin to inch ratio the better the radiator is going to cool.............assuming you get air across the fins. So, when you say you've got a 2 row radiator with 1" cores....how many fins per inch.......how many per square inch......if it's less than 35/40 per square inch............this could be one of your issues. Now, about the transmission oil lines going into the bottom of the radiator, remember what I said above..........the water trickles/runs down and is hot on top and is supposed to get cooler as it reaches the bottom of the radiator..................well...........if your trans fluid is at 190+ what do you think that is going to do to the water trying to be cooled as it leaves the bottom of the radiator going back into the block....................it is certainly not going to help it......................would be my opinion. And I would hesitate another guess is that your transmission is not stock...........right or wrong? Do you have a aluminum finned deep sump pan on your trans??? Ok, I didn't mean to pick on you......I hope you understand that. If you were to take the transmission lines and route them to a larger (like B&M) seperate cooler with built in fan and plug the bottom of your radiator my guess is that you would lower your temperature...........and will not run as hot in traffic..........where the trans is building up heat....stop and go. I would also suggest you monitor the transmission fluid with a simple gauge. Remember...........anything over 200 degrees starts breaking down the trans oil and certainly doesn't do any good for your trans in the long run..... So, given our radiators are pretty small by todays standards, I assume you have an electric fan that can do at least 2500cfm.............is it manually switched or is it thermostat controlled? And, also, do you have a shroud around the radiator/fan to pull in the maximum amount of air. In a blown motor, roots type, remember that the blades are creating friction as the air passes through...............as for your car making peak power at 165 degrees..............don't know your motor so I won't make any comment. When I start up the race car on the trailer/or to go into the staging lanes I always wait for the temp to reach minimum of 160 and the trans to about the same before I move the car.............but again, this is a race car not a street car. As for your last comment which said, "we are running into water pocket issues". If I read you, you think that without running the bypass that you are going to create water pockets???, not sure what you mean by water pockets. You are obviously running a warm'd over motor (no punn intended) and depending on what temperature thermostat you have put in it, I would probably change to a "high performance" type like I put in the thread, and when you pull the bypass, go to the one that has the 3/16" holes in them as this will allow any air behind the thermostat to be released back to the radiator like it should. I hope this helped you in thinking through some of your overheating issues. I did this with my blown Flathead and they are known for running hot and cracking valve seats in the block........as the motor is not an overhead type. So, now you have some choices...............and if you want to cruise in 100+ temperatures it really shouldn't be an issue, and you won't have to worry about melting your motor down..................IMHO
I totally agree with Injectedmav.............Wow, go figure. I think your issue is like I mentioned above, but you have a serious issue if infact is pulling 64oz of water which is almost 1/2 gallon...........you do have an issue that needs looking into. When you had your motor built, was it "shaked and baked" or just cleaned with liquid? Just a question.
