stalling problem

Discussion in 'Technical' started by royboy88, Oct 3, 2012.

  1. royboy88

    royboy88 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2011
    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    30
    Location:
    decatur il
    Vehicle:
    77 ford maverick, 69 ford custom 500, 94 ford explorer
    I have 200 it runs fine at idle I can rev it with no problem, but when I put it in gear and give it gas it kills its self. I'v already replaced everything I can thank of new carb, coil, cap and rotor, plugs and wires check all vacum ports thanks in advance
     
  2. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Messages:
    4,123
    Likes Received:
    752
    Trophy Points:
    463
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Saint John, New Brunswick Canada
    Vehicle:
    1971 Grabber
    Sounds like your choke is staying on. Warm up the car for a few minutes and verify that the choke plate is fully open. If not, then look for the wire that (should be) connected to your choke housing and verify it has 12V while the car is running/ign on.

    That's where i would start looking, anyway.
     
  3. simple man

    simple man Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2009
    Messages:
    1,507
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Bunnell,Florida
    Vehicle:
    74 Maverick - 82 Ford Ranger,one of the first ones made!
    Even though your carb is new, check your accelerator pump for a good solid stream especially when the throttle is opened slowly! Many times a carb in storage will get a bit of corrosion in those small ports. Sometimes the pump may appear to work fine with a quick throttle application, but it must work with a slow application as well. The good thing about a new carb is that you can usually get it apart without breaking any gaskets, if you need to. If no stream at all, a bread twist tie wire can be inserted into the pump jet with a little patience. Sometimes that's all that's needed! Those jets have a very small orifice.:)
     
  4. royboy88

    royboy88 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2011
    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    30
    Location:
    decatur il
    Vehicle:
    77 ford maverick, 69 ford custom 500, 94 ford explorer
    I forgot to mention it has an engine out of a 73 maverick it has the heated choke
     
  5. simple man

    simple man Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2009
    Messages:
    1,507
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Bunnell,Florida
    Vehicle:
    74 Maverick - 82 Ford Ranger,one of the first ones made!
    Like " Paul " suggested, is the choke opening up? If it is open follow my steps. If it is not, make sure it is getting power to it and it may take a few minutes to open from a cold start. I say accelerator pump issues simply because the pump system on both the YF series and the RBS series Carter carbs leaves a lot to be desired! :)
    Brain fart! Is your choke heated by a tube from the exhaust manifold, or is it electric?
     
  6. royboy88

    royboy88 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2011
    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    30
    Location:
    decatur il
    Vehicle:
    77 ford maverick, 69 ford custom 500, 94 ford explorer
    it is heated from the manifold i put a new heat tube made from brake line on it
     
  7. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Messages:
    4,123
    Likes Received:
    752
    Trophy Points:
    463
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Saint John, New Brunswick Canada
    Vehicle:
    1971 Grabber
    I would have thought a 77 would have had an electric choke. If the tube becomes blocked, or the insulation falls off, the choke 'clockspring' will not stay warm enough to open the choke. If sealant was used to make the connection at the manifold, I would suspect it has plugged the tube. The bottom hole in the manifold (where the air is drawn into the manifold to be heated) can also become plugged. If your car (most likely) has the wire for an electric choke, I would find one on e-bay and convert it. They are much more reliable and easier to 'check'. How big is your 'brake tube'? If it's 3/16 it's too small. Should be 1/4" IIRC.

    That's my $0.02
     
  8. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Messages:
    4,123
    Likes Received:
    752
    Trophy Points:
    463
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Saint John, New Brunswick Canada
    Vehicle:
    1971 Grabber
    Oh and FYI, those insulating wraps originally on these cars are ASBESTOS I believe, so play safe!:cold:
     
  9. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Messages:
    26,576
    Likes Received:
    2,931
    Trophy Points:
    978
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    MACON,GA.
    Vehicle:
    '73 Grabber
    :sorry:...but for some reason, that struck me as being funny...:rofl2:
     
  10. royboy88

    royboy88 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2011
    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    30
    Location:
    decatur il
    Vehicle:
    77 ford maverick, 69 ford custom 500, 94 ford explorer
    I used 1/4 inch brake line and stuck inside the hole on the manifold
     
  11. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Messages:
    4,123
    Likes Received:
    752
    Trophy Points:
    463
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Saint John, New Brunswick Canada
    Vehicle:
    1971 Grabber
    Have you verified that your choke is opening 100% after it warms up?
     

Share This Page