Thermactor Pump holes....

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Moneymaker 1, Oct 20, 2012.

  1. Moneymaker 1

    Moneymaker 1 Green Street Beasts

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    I need suggestions on what to plug the Thermactor pump holes in the back of the heads with, I found where it was said a 5/8 screw in plug/bolt would work but it won't, seems these heads have a sleeve in the holes so no threads are present, also keep in mind these heads are in the car so they are not easy to get too, I have to run these heads until I can find someone locally to rework the 1969 set I have, seems the local shop, Dover Cylinder heads does not work on ford heads, at least thats what they said when I asked about doing mine.
     
  2. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    There should be threads there. If a sleeve was pushed in there, can you get an easy out in it and see if it will spin out? If the sleeve comes out, it should look something like this. And a plug can then be screwed in.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

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    The th.reads on my heads were in really bad shape so I took a piece of 3/8 steel drilled a hole for a bolt for the small hole above the thremactor hole and sealed it with high temp rtv. Seemed to work just fine on my car.
     
  4. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    Isn't it just the small holes that need to be plugged? I bought some set screws from the hardware store, that fit.
     
  5. Moneymaker 1

    Moneymaker 1 Green Street Beasts

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    It's the larger of the two holes that need plugging, I don't have a LARGE eazyout and not sure there is room to work with one back there, got maybe 2" between firewall and the back of the head, the plate idea may work, has anyone tried JB Weld or similar products?
    Maybe JB Weld and a bolt stuck in there, not much pressure coming out as I can plug it with my finger while the engine is running, it's just noisy, exhaust leak.
     
  6. FordCountry180

    FordCountry180 Member

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  7. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    I'm curious what the sleeve is? But anyway, use a drill bit to size the hole and pick up a couple self tapping bolts at the hardware store. That should do it.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    You're supposed to use a threaded pipe-plug which uses an allen wrench or hex key. Put some Teflon tape around the threads.
     
  9. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Yes, but he said there are no longer any threads. Which is why I thought maybe the self tapping bolt would do the trick.

    :)
     
  10. Jsarnold

    Jsarnold Senior Member

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    This is the thermactor connection on a '95 F150 5.8L/351W engine. Doesn't look like they use the 5/8 thread. You could close off the pipes and use these to plug the hole.
     

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  11. Moneymaker 1

    Moneymaker 1 Green Street Beasts

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    Yeah I bought those plugs for it...5/8 X 11 X 1/2, that was before I knew there were no threads but sleeves in it, I think i'm gonna try something like epoxy putty or JB Weld, I don't need it to last but for maybe 5 or 6 months.
     
  12. franktf

    franktf Member

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    The smaller bolts hold the rear tube in place..... The bigger hole is 5/8-11 threaded, in the front of the heads they put reducer/plugs in them for the accessory bolts..... If you can not see any threads in them, the threads are probably filled with carbon build up(this is very common.....

    You can either get a 5/8-11 tap and chase the carbon out of the threads or you could make some caps out of atleast 1/8" plate and bolt it down with the smaller bolt like the factory tube..... I have done this and it works fine(I usually put a little ultra copper under the cap when I bolt it on).....
     
  13. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    Don't use JB Weld where there is direct high heat, it won't live long. I don't know what kind of temps that would experience.

    I JB it to block off a weird heat riser passage for a carb choke in a 5.0 factory aluminum intake. The car ran great for about 3 blocks and after that was when the JB Weld failed. Got a carb spacer that blocked it off right after that.
     
  14. Moneymaker 1

    Moneymaker 1 Green Street Beasts

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    Definately no threads are there, I tried in vain to get some to appear, it's not really bad with pressure or even heat, I can hold my finger over it and it quiets down real nice and thats on a hot engine, really won't take much of anything to plug them, I even considered a wooden dowel lol.
     
  15. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    OK...what heads are those?
     

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