You will notice better turn in response and less push through corners with the arning drop. Just pay close attention to your upper ball joints. They are being worked harder with the mod, due to the increased camber angle...
Total Control makes a template for drilling the hole, a little expensive but better than screwing it up: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/drill_jig.html Micah
Here are the lowering templates http://www.ponytales.org/features/p...ur-a-arms-isnt-as-difficult-as-you-think.html
when I do that mod on my cars.. I always go for broke with the largest possible drop and run a negative wedge kit to fix the geometry that get's screwed up in the process. Also keep in mind that moving the relocated holes rearward a bit can help quite noticeably too. Not sure if these little towers will allow the 1/8 inch or so of rearward movement though. The 4 cars that I've used that mod on dropped the stance at least 1/2 inch and the tires stay much more square to the pavement during heavy turns. Almost seems like going to a larger sway bar and well worth the effort.
Thanks for the pics. Sure looks like there's more than sufficient room for the 1/8 inch setback to me. Good to know since I'll be maxing mine out.
I've done both the 2" full drop with the wedges and setback and the 1.5" drop with tubular upper control arms. I was still going through upper ball joints every 15-20K miles. The 2" drop was done with the Pro-Motorsports templates and wedge kit and I had to source the ball joints from them since the holes were drilled for 3/8" hardware instead of the OEM 5/16". I personally prefer the 1.5" drop and if I didn't have the tubular UCA's, I would still use the ball joint wedge, just to be on the safe side.
So, are there any fact's to support the info, that is was already done with the later year cars? I have a early 73, without the support on the shock tower to the frame rail, and a 73 with the support, and the placement appears to be the same, and if I compare it to my 74, it's the same again?
