I set out yesterday and after some small struggles I was able to get the engine installed in my new 71 project. I tried first to install it complete with the trans as I had done in the past with my 70. But it wouldn’t happen with the new front end and a rear sump oil pan. Ending up having to pull it back out take the trans off and do the engine first. Took me all day, but it's done and boy it looks good there’s an amazing amount of room to work with now. One problem is I was hoping to use my modified Crites headers till I could get another set but they hit the rack. I Guess I could make them work with a BFH but I don't want to bang them up as I am sure some here could use them. They have been opened up and have 2" ports with the diagonal TrickFlow flange bolt pattern. So I will need a new set, not sure if they make an OTS header to fit or if a fox 351w conversion type will work. I may need to go custom but I would like 1 7/8 or 2" tubes, love to hear any suggestions? Here's a couple picture for your viewing pleasure.
Beautiful work :bananaman I had the same problem putting my Cleveland in with the top loader all hooked up in one piece. I had to kind of force the rear sump past the very rear edge of the MII crossmember. Coming back out, I'll split the trans from the engine. Since my car is built very much the same as your own, how are you going to frame out the radiator to secure it without a radiator wall. I haven't yet come up with a solution that looks good
I see that your radiator wall still attaches to each front fender. My situation is a little different as my fenders, hood, valence, grill and front bumper will be attached together into one piece and made to tilt. A stock radiator wall left behind after the assembly tilts, holding in my AFCO aluminum radiator, would not look good
Thanks for the kind words. Looks like I'm stuck on the headers now. What is everyone doing for headers with a M2 / rack front end, I searched but I must be blind. Do you think the Hooker 6231hk will work. It's a Fox 351w conversion set with 2" tubes and TFS diag flange.
Using the same suspension but with a Cleveland instead of a Windsor, I simply choose an early 70's Mustang header. The driver's side fit right in place but clutch linkage is out of the question - have to go hrdraulic. Steering to the rack got interesting also but it works. The passenger side header caused me to have to notch the frame rail out somewhat and the one tube, that sweeps back, hit the floor foorboardl so I cut out some of the floor for that and will re-do it for clearence later. Don't know if this helps at all because, like I said, C not W. Just throwing it out there
Very, Very nice! Sure is a lot of room without the towers and inner fender panels............would love to do this to mine so I don't have to spend an hour to get the plugs out and in of the 408.
Looks good, I would order a set of 2" Kooks from Summit, it looks like they stock them, if they don't fit, send them back! http://www.summitracing.com/search/...le/trick-flow-high-port/header-finish/natural
I made some final adjustments and finished up the electronics, just have to make some connections now. The panel and gauge cluster are fabricated as one unit.
