How about this car for sale with coil-overs and scalped shock towers? Anyone have first-hand experience with coil-overs and/or cars with the shock towers removed? Good looking build on this car, but wouldn't the mods result in a not-so-rigid front end? Would hate to see just one tire come off the ground It has Checkered Racing coil-overs. Do coil overs in general provide a balanced ride quality, or a teeth jarring ride? I don't want a car with coil-overs unless it improves the handling and suspension characteristics, and still leaves the car fairly comfortable to drive around town. Pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/83005152@N02/sets/72157632249119113/ Sale thread: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=92466 It about a 10 hour drive from me, has a 5-speed, which I really was hoping to have. I'm sure my nephews would love it! How they taped off the paint on the door skins is a little odd though, especially underneath the driver door.
Glad to hear you like the coilovers. But if you remove the shocks towers, don't you lose the rigidity they provide to the front end? I would think you want at least a brace over the top of the engine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/83005152@N02/8273995845/in/set-72157632249119113
This might answer some questions about rigidity: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/torsional-rigidity-test-67-coupe.723029/
This is the coil-over kit that is on my car.... It was installed by Checkered Racing (they manufacture the kit) at their shop in ILL.. The car drives and handles as good or better than stock - no issues on corners or bumps. You really have to drive the car to believe how well the kit works. Building a full frame Pro Street car or just upgrading your current car by removing your stock front-end, this is the front-end for you. This front-end will give you increased room in your motor bay, race proven reliability, improve your ride down the track and best of all you can save approximately 200 pounds. We can set it up to your track width or you can do it as you install the front-end. The frame utilizes tubular DOM control arms, Mustang II Spindles, 11 inch vented rotors, Mustang II rack, screw in ball joints, QA1 Aluma-Matic shocks and springs, 2 x 3 inch Mandrel Bent Frame Rails, Fully Jig Welded, QA1 XM Rod Ends with Teflon/Kevlar Races on Upper and Lower Control Arms, GM Calipers & Brake Pads, Adapter Caliper Brackets, All Bearings, Seals, Dust Caps & Mounting Hardware. http://stores.checkeredracing.com/catalog/ProStreetFront1L.jpg
Dave, that is a great thread! Thanks, very informative , and everyone considering removing there shock towers should read it. I also saw mavman's build where he uses tube framing welded back to the firewall. Arogant, I am really interested in your car but I have concerns I am hoping experts on the forum can help advise me with. Do you know what the builder did to address the loss of rigidity that comes (according to the thread) when the shock towers and export braces are removed? Is there any kind of documented build history, or forum posting that details your cars build? Or photos that show it?
I've seen that car personally, and I've had a real good look at it...I don't think there is much to be concerned about. Like any car, there is always fine tuning. Frank has dirven his car all over the country with a MII front suspension, with no issues.
To answer your question about the cars "builder". - I have the receipt from Checkered Racing for the coil-over kit install. The paperwork shows that Checkered Racing installed their coil over kit at their shop in Illinois. I also have a receipt for the front end alignment that was done on the car after it was built - it is from a frame / chassis shop out of metro Detroit. I don't know how else to answer your question. - I would advise calling Checkered Racing - they should be able to answer any questions you may have....
yes you do.. but it's not enough to really cause serious issues on a street car. If it were a purpose built track car?.. then it would need to be shored up from several directions. If you think about it.. there are tons of MII setups running around and the frame rails don't just collapse around the motors(dramatic effect added) so the design has proven itself capable for streetrods and hotrods. And if you really really think about it?.. that car has all the parts and makings of a truly awesome build(it's definately already "great") if one wanted to take it to the next stage with added rigidity. At this point..the cost would be minimal in the scheme of things.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-coupe.723029/ all of that is mute after you put a rolling chassis under it...rubber tires, coil and leaf springs, mounted motor and transmission crossmember would bring the flex #s down to 0%... JMO...
I did some more reading. Sounds to me that with all the range in quality between different MII kits, you really want to take a close look at the welds and see how well it was done. Thanks for bringing me up to speed.
