Would those who have done the 5.0 mass air EFI mind sending me a few photos when you get a chance? I’m still trying to sort out a couple of things and would like to see how others have set up their electric fuel pumps, fuel lines, trunk mounted battery and air intake. You can just send them straight to me: micahkev – at – pacbell.net Thanks, Micah
Thanks, I saw the pictures but I'm really hoping for some close up photos to determine some of the routing of fuel lines and mounting of the fuel pump, coil, battery, air intake...... I'm stripping the entire car, painting it inside and out and then doing the conversion. I don’t want to weld and drill in and around fresh paint. I would like to figure it all out before the paint goes on. So, for those EFI Mavericks, what did you do, where did you put it and what do you wish you would have done. Thanks, Micah
If I were starting from scratch, knowing what I know now and have learned from others here, I would modify the fuel tank for an in-tank pump, use a single fuse box inside the car instead of under the hood, route all the wiring to the back of the engine for the engine controls and put a grommet just above the tunnel to pass the wiring to the fuse box and PCM under the center of the dash. I would also just install a VintageAir Gen4 HVAC unit for size and performance considerations. My fuel line routing is under the passenger side pressure and return and works but I would make more effort to keep them away from suspension systems and go with a larger pressure line for possible upgrades. I use hard tubing with rubber EFI rated hose for the movable connection points. Some pics are in my gallery, if you need others that I have, send me a PM and I'll see if I can figure out how to send them to you.
I don't have any pictures but will try to explain how we did it. The fuel pumps are located on a frame rail in front of the gas tank. If I redo our setup or had it to do over I would like to build a new tank using the factory 5.0 Mustand fuel pickup and pump. The aftermarket one is noisy and it has both a lift and a pressure pump. For the fuel lines we ran the supply in the factory location and then crossed over under the front chassis/strut rod memeber and using the factory lines up to the EFI. for the return we again used the factory line and them mimicked the supply to return to the tank placing a return connection in the factory sending unit. The coil we placed on a purposed built bracket close to the A/C eliminator pulley. The air filter is an open element behind the batter tray which is still in it's factory location. That is one more thing I would like to change and if we do not move the batter to the trunk we will move it to the driver's side and make a cold air box on the passenger side for the air intake.
Thanks for the replies!! The fuel tank and pump are big unknowns for me right now. I appreciate your input. I bought a new tank and already had a bung welded in. Now after your and Steven’s posts, I’m wondering if I should look into getting a sump grafted info the new tank and abandon the idea of an external pump. Any recommendations on what is available? I did not even know that the fuel inlet lines on the motor were on the right side. I just assumed they were on the left. What diameter hose do you recommend? As for wiring, I don’t want to get in too deep into this. I think (fingers crossed), I just scored a NOS engine wiring harness for $45 and with a couple modifications for headlights, fan and driving lights, I plan to keep it as is. I have a new Ford Racing harness for the motor and I plan to put the A9P ECU in the left foot well. The car has AC now, something I added 20 years ago. It works fine and I plan to keep it. I’m planning on an AOD. Did either of you go that route? If so, what did you do for cooling lines? Can original ’89 Mustang lines be modified? I plan to shift the spare tire to the left side and install a battery on the right side using a modified original tray assembly. (Not worried about hydrogen fumes) Intake will be a BBK unit for a Mustang. I have the Contour electric fan ready to go except for the relays. I have Traction Masters and sub-frame connectors. Rear will be a 3.54 posi with four leaf springs, Konis and the upgraded Addco bar (hopefully). Engine will be a SSP 302 out of a crashed US Customs police car stroked to 331. (SSP just means it has an oil cooler) Estimated 400 ft lbs and 400+ hp. Front is a Total Control Products coil over conversion with the “Shelby drop” and the upgraded VeriShocks. I have the in dash tachometer from Jack Grice, floor shifter, rebuilt power steering system, consolette, clock, ’74 retractable seat belts, LDO interior lights and bucket seats out of a ’72 Comet. Engine is at the shop. Seats are at the upholsterer. Seat belts are getting restored. Boxes of NOS parts in the attic. I have already purchased just about all the parts from new carpet to the serpentine belt. I just need to figure out some of the issues related to the conversion and get them done now. I’m hoping for total tear down in August and reassembly 60 days later. That’s why I’m looking for some advice so that I can keep on schedule. In the mean time, I still drive her every day. As for pictures, I would appreciate anything. Email is micahkev -at- pacbell.net Thanks, Micah
The problem with the externally mounted fuel pump is fuel starvation under hard acceleration and spirited cornering maneuvers. The bowl in the carb stores enough fuel at these times where fuel injection requires constant pressure at all times. A sump with some sort of baffle around the pickup may alleviate these issues even with an external pump. I ran hard tubing along the passenger side of the car, I would recommend at least 3/8" pressure, 5/16" return. With a good quality pump, that will easily support 400hp. I used a Motorcraft fuel filter (for serviceability reasons) with a junkyard bracket from something and Ford quick connect fuel line fittings that are available from NAPA as repair kits. Just remember, these systems can produce 100PSI or better so make sure you use components designed for high pressure fuel systems. I also mounted my A9L ECU in the LH kick panel area. Running the wiring is the biggest problem since you will have to lengthen all of the wiring from the engine connectors to the ECU. That in itself is quite a job, and it will get cluttered quick since the factory fusebox is located in the upper left, the master cylinder, etc. You will also have to figure out where to mount your fuel pump and EEC relays, fuses, etc, which is why I said that I probably would do that differently. I'm not sure about Hedman or Dougs, but the Hooker 6901 long tube headers won't clear the AOD without modification. I seem to vaguely remember someone heating the Hookers to clear, just be aware they likely will require modifying. The Hedman shorty's might be another option. I would just buy a tubing bender and bend new trans cooler lines and run them to the Maverick radiator and a stacked plate style cooler in front of the radiator. A couple of guys mounted the cooler in the back and don't seem to have issues, so I would search the site for ideas there as well. I also mounted an Optima battery in the trunk, I just left the spare where it was and mounted the battery up near the back seat on the RH side. If you have the police 100amp alternator, that would be sufficient for the cooling fans but if not you might want to go ahead and upgrade to the internally regulated 130amp 3G alternator.
Injected, The Ford Racing harness is supposed to be longer than stock so that you can retro the 5.0 into anything. I hope it goes smoothly. http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9631 I know about the issues with long tube headers, both with the PS and the AOD. I was already planning on using shorties. This is one of the reasons I'm to stroking the motor to make up for the loss with the shorties. Plus, I had long tube headers on the 6 and I use to drag them on everything. Definitely going to upgrade the alternator to 150 alternator. A guy on eBay already sold me a 130 amp one wire that I have in the car now but he has a large case putting out around 200 that I will probably go with. My car never seemed to have enough juice. With the fans, AC, stereo, halogens and a set of Lucas Square eights, there will be a need for juice. I’m hoping the NOS harness and the big alternator will cure this. How did you get your battery cables through the body? Micah
We ran the wires through the middle of the firewall hidden behind the motor. We mounted the ECU in the center dash area. We run the double fuel pumps and do not have fuel starvation problems but I do not like the vibration and noise. Eventually we would like to use stock Mustang parts in a modified tank. We run a T-5 and 6901 Hooker headers. We hard lined all our fuel lines except to connect to the tank and then to factory EFI lines and used specific fuel injection hose at those locations. 3/8 and 5/16 sounds right.
That wiring harness should do what you need. I went with a T5 also(I wanted a manual anyway) and the harness and PCM in that location got in the way of the clutch pedal when I was using a breakout box to diagnose a couple of issues. My positive cable runs over the RH wheel house along the pinch weld, through the channel under the sill plate and through a hole I drilled in the lower A-pillar structure near the lower hinge plate, using a grommet of course. I would run at least 2ga wire to prevent excessive voltage drop. I originally mounted the ground wire to the body in the trunk and used a ground strap to the frame rail up front but I later added a 2ga redundant ground wire to the lower starter mounting bolt that ran along the trans tunnel with the brake lines.(I was chasing what I thought was excessive voltage drop on the ground side but turned out to be a defective starter when it got hot). I use a late EFI type starter relay for a 91 Mustang and ran the positive cable to that with it serving as a junction for my alternator power cable and fuse box supply cable, both 6ga. It is mounted behind the shock tower below the fuse box. I also used a stock 93 Mustang planetary gear type starter. The nice thing about the trunk mounted battery with sound systems is that you can wire your amps directly with short runs of large gauge wire in the trunk and only have to worry about making sure the alternator can recharge it sufficiently. A redundant equally sized ground wire to the engine block will help that as well and you want at least a 4ga power wire to a junction block.
Injected, I would like to see what you did with your battery and cables when you get a chance. Thanks, Micah
What intakes is everyone running, and are there any hood clearance issues? I am in the process of working on my 69.5- the motor I have built for it (originally supposed to go in a different car I am working on, but oh well!) is a 347 with TFS TW heads and Explorer (GT40) upper and lower intakes...
Sure, no problem. I'll have to take some, I didn't take pictures of that part when I did the conversion.
