I want to swap my mechanical fuel pump for an electric, any advise on which setup I should use? 302 carbed 650 edelbrock. I don't drive it that often, but when I do I have to prime and pump the crap out of it. Wears on my starter and battery. Thanks
All of the fuel drains back out of the line some how. My thinking is, if I have an electric one it will pump it to the carb when I turn the switch on and I won't have to turn the engine over so long. What's a good psi rating for the fuel pump? Autozone has one that's 9psi on the low side and I believe 15psi on the high side. $41.00
I'm using one of these right at the line that exits the fuel tank. I didn't even mount it! The hose between it and the two lines holds it quite securely and it is very quiet. I only use this to prime the carb if the car isn't used for a few weeks. I ran the wires into the trunk, grounded the black one to the side marker lamp stud and I just plug the red wire into the back of the marker light socket and turn on the parking lights for 30secs or so. It actually saved me once when my mechanical pump went bad! I also have this same pump on my Ranger. It has a fuel injected block that had no mechanical pump. I have had this one on it for at least 5yrs. The only thing I've found is to mount it as low as possible and away from heat. I put the one on the Ranger in the left side frame rail. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ci_sku=37912&gclid=CL7visb0iroCFcqZ4Aod8T0A-g
Might be a touch overkill, but holley red or blue would be my suggestion. Mounted back near the tank. Most likely red on a mild engine. Better to have too much fuel pump than not enough. I am using the red on a mildly built 5.0. Works fine for me. http://www.jegs.com/p/Holley/Holley-Electric-Fuel-Pumps/745123/10002/-1
I don't think you should wire an electric fuel pump so its always on when the ignition is on unless you install an inertia switch to kill the pump in a collision. I didn't do an inertia switch but I did put a low oil pressure cut off in the circuit for the electric pump. Then I wired in a push button on the dash that will bypass the low oil pressure switch. That way the engine doesn't have to crank till it builds up oil pressure before the fuel pump will run. The carb bowls are filled by turning the key on and hitting the bypass button. When the carb is filled its time to crank the engine. Or, you can run an additional wire from the starter solenoid to the fuel pump so the pump will run as soon as the starter is engaged. At least then the fuel pump won't have to wait for oil pressure to build up. The low oil pressure cut off was more for roll over protection than protecting the engine from low oil pressure. If there's no oil pressure, I expect by the time the carb runs out of fuel the engine would already be damaged.
I don't plan on any collisions. Mine is on when I click my key to "ON". There may be a time when I go to a track and they tell me to wire it up with a cut-off, but for my daily driving, not cut-off.
Either did the guy I watched get t-boned yesterday....Inertia switches are easy to find in the auto wreckers, and cheap! http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=42
May not be a fuel pump issue! I have mech pump and my car can sit for weeks, regardless of the season; I pump the pedal once or twice and 95% of the time it fires instantly. What abt the choke operation, accelartor pump and fast idle setting?
the fuel bowl of the carb wont drain back out the fuel line. that fuel should stay in the bowls till your ready to start the car again. some how your fuel bowls are draining, which is hard to do on an edelbrock carburetor. some simple testing could save you some money wasted on an electric fuel pump. how long does it have to sit before its hard to start? does your choke work? what type of ignition coil and system are you using? a weak coil can make it hard to start also.
I agree with Bryant on this one, the only carb that is notorious for draining out when sitting is the quadrapuke. Thermoquads would too if the plastic body was cracked but those are fairly scarce anymore.
