Okay mine is already bored .30 over and they claim it to be at around 210 hp. with the 331 stroker kit how much extra hp would i get since kit brings it 10 : 1 ?
a stock 302 .030 over isnt going to give your hardly in hp even with a 331 at 10-1 isnt going to do donkey with out heads cam and intakes
Okay i guess stock heads, eldbrock 289 intake holley 600cfm, aod tranny, How can i find out what cam i have and stall converter ?
so your trans has been swapped? is the converter stock? if you want to go bigger get ahold of alan @ dirtydog performace or lentech both are awesome AOD guys you might as well ditch the heads, i dont know what you got but im sure there not going to flow cam is very hard for just anyone to select what do you want to do with the car? i assume drag racing, i would suggest calling a cam company and telling them what you have...alot of cams like a converter and gears 331 is going to be usless with stock heads, the engine is a big air pump if you cant get air in and out, your not going to have any hp 66 289 heads are good, 69/70 351w heads are good, some guys like gt40 heads, thats the cheapest your going to find, i would highly suggest AFR 165cc with the 331 and air gap intake with 650-750 carb and you will have a fast car!
Just the stroker kit alone will net you HP & torque gains from the increased compression and leverage. To fully take advantage of it, you'll need to change heads, cam and intake and add more carb. My 331 is built with the Eagle kit, 10.4 to 1 compression (needs 93 octane pump premium too) Canfield heads (these are the 1.94 valved AFR165 equivalents) Ford Z303 cam, 1.7 Comp roller rockers. Induction is a repop Ford 3x2 setup ( Mine cost me $1100, new sets are now $1500) HP should be in the 400-450 range. Tame enough to drive daily, fuel economy in a 3800 lb 89 Ranger was 16 highway with no overdrive. This motor cost me $3500 to build, without adding the induction setup. You really need to find out what you have now as far as compression ratio and cam before proceeding farther. To do that and help in head selection, you'll need to remove the heads and intake and pull the cam. Or start fresh with a roller 5.0 and build from there and keep what you have now running while the new motor's being built. An easy cheap start for a roller 5.0 is to buy a reman shortblock for a 90's pickup/van and buy heads, cam and intake for it. I went this route on one build starting with a $350 roller shortblock. Swapped the stock roller with a B303, topped it with ported E7TE heads and a Ford A321 intake.Replaced the rod bolts with ARP's (with the engine assembled) Beat on it for over a year before replacing the top end with the Canfields and a Vic Jr intake. Beat on it for another 4 months with daily freeway blasts to 7500 rpms. It split a cylinder wall and made a milkshake in the oilpan. Still ran though, the rotating assembly held up fine.
You are increasing cubic inches by 10%. If you 7 HP ofr each cubic inch then you will gain about 21 HP (+/- 10hp) if you don't change anything else.
