Solid lifter cam??????

Discussion in 'Technical' started by GTwannabe, Jan 26, 2006.

  1. GTwannabe

    GTwannabe Member

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    hey everyone,
    i was given a 512 lift ISKY solid lifter cam, and thats about all i know about it. I just was needing some info on it. first, i was looking through a summit mag and see that there is a difference in solid lifters and hydralic lifters. so does this mean i have to use solid lifters and get rid of the stock ones? second, is there any thing else i need to get to use this cam? and third, whats better a hydralic or solid cam? thanks, GTfinally:yup:
     
  2. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    For a solid cam you need:
    Good cam (no damage, check it good since it is used)
    Solid lifters
    Correct springs (just like any cam)
    Adjustable rockers...
    On an SBF, this often means hardened pushrods, screw in studs, and guide plates, depending on how you go about it and which adj. rockers you use.
    Also, adj. rockers often also lead to the need for taller valve covers than stock... or cover spacer, or very thick gaskets. This is for clearance.
    A swap to a solid cam is not pure and simple, however the rewards can be great.

    Solid cam...
    Pros:
    Very fast revving.
    More torque throughout the power band than hydraulic.
    Wider power band than hydraulicj.
    Can be 'super tuned' to match your needs, kinda like a carb can be tuned to your taste.
    Very forgiving if overcammed.
    More vacuum.
    Solid cam is streetable with 10-15 degrees more duration than your choice for max streetable hydraulic cam.
    Less noise.
    More noise.
    ;)
    Less because it runs much smoother than a hydraulic at a given duration.
    More because it's mechanical action has 'mechanical' noises to it.

    Cons:
    Can require regular tuning that requires removing the valve covers while running, depending on your choice of rockers. There are some with really good locking mechanisims that hold your lash tuning nearly forever.
    Tuning also requires learning what you are doing. Like tuning a carb. If you bolt on a Holley and don't learn to tune it, nothing will happen but you going around bad mouthing Holleys... Don't learn to tune a solid cam, you could wreck your engine.
    More noise tappet noise.
    Less lope.
    (personally I love the sound)
    Higher rpm capability could cause you to over rev engine if you are not careful and your parts selection is dead on.
    I guess all the negatives could just be listed as "less forgiving" than hydraulic....
    Hyd = cushion
    Solid = no cushion (or fudge factor)

    Hydraulic...
    Pros:
    Quiet
    Plug and play
    Cushion for error

    Cons:
    Not adjustable
    Narrow power band
    Soft throttle response (compared to solid)
    Less streetable at any given duration
    Less vacuum at any given duration
    Everybody's got them

    Good luck
    Dave
     
  3. Cleaver

    Cleaver Member

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    I apologise if you have already looked it up - but here is what Isky recommends.

    ISKY 512 solid SBF cam

    Cleaver
     
  4. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    I like those specs myself.
    If it were a hydraulic cam, it would be slightly milder than a Comp 280 Magnum.
    Not for a stock engine to be sure.
    Decent 4 speed cam... 108 LCA
    Dave
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2006

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