Ok, when you buy something from someone and you go by what they tell you about the motor DON'T always believe them! I finally got the motor down, remember I said it was a stock bottom end with 12k on a fresh rebuild? Well it is fresh, very fresh, everything in great shape, tight, no ring groove at all, heads great condition so the 12 k I believe BUT one of the first things I notice was a part number on top of the pistons. It was xxx-xxxx-.060, hmmmm wonder what that means, yep it's a fresh rebuild BORED over .60, well I be danged. Figured well turn the crank and look at the cylinder walls, looked great decided to measure the stroke.....hmmmm, 3.25 I thought 302 had a stroke of 3" wait 3.25 x 4.060 is ?? 337. well I be danged, now I know really where I stand and with being said and the fact it is a fresh tight motor will this set up work well with it and I calculate needing 700 cfm of carb, input from the brains on here please http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Ford-2...005&prg=9209&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=220978233017&rt=nc
Opening the can of worms.... is .060 too much to cut out of a 302? Everything I was ever told that its absolute max and avoid it.
Too much Yes it is obviously the max as you don't see any parts or kits over 0.60 for sure, so I realize it's a one run motor, when it goes, it's gone. Being as it is in great condition that's why I ask about that cam set up, as it's a one rum motor but the heads, cam, intake, etc. are all re-usable next round.
lol.. now you know why it was getting so loose when you got on it. At least until the cam went away. 650 carb would still be good with similar sized cam. 750 cfm for a bigger cam/higher rpm. .060 over?.. that depends on the individual block. Have it sonic checked while it's apart. Hopefully you have the correct 5.4" rods to help reduce thrust loading. I've seen dozens of 302's @.060 survive just fine. And yes.. there were a couple that ran hotter than others.. but my guess is that those were probably thin-cast later model blocks. My little motor is .060 and ran up past 7,000 all day long.. well, whenever I could find a straight stretch anyways.. for well over a year before I pulled it out and sold the car off. The bores and gapless rings are still perfect. I would also recalculate your compression ratio again. I'm guessing that your running around +11:1 with those heads and a .040 thick gasket on a 0 deck.
yes it does explain the power, but can someone with knowlegde on cams look at the specs and tell me is that a good match or is it too much, if it will handle it and what carb you would use, remember header tubes are 1 5/8 into 3 " collectors....also anything you would do to the heads while I got em off besides changing the springs for the additional lift?
Do you want to convert it to a full roller? Money well spent and considered to be cheaper insurance under a teenagers foot. If so, this is a good one. Timing spec's(red link) is further down/middle of the page. http://www.compperformancegroupstor...&Product_Code=35-425-8&Category_Code=HRCAMSXE In fact, have that same exact grind/lobe patterns(282HR) in a 383 Chevy making an honest 500 horse and pulling well past 6,500 rpm. Same RPM style heads too.. but mine are heavily ported at around 190cc. It's an excellent "all-around" midrange torque cam and makes decent idle vacuum of around 15 inches in mine. Your smaller CID/lower compression combo would probably be down into the 11-12 range I'm guessing.. depending on your tune and whether you end up running gapless rings like mine does. Those headers are perfect for a moderately sized street engine. Carb should be 650 or 750 VS (for the inexperienced tuners).. or more radical choice of double pumper for those who can tune and afford to run to the pump more often. Mainly because the car is light.. but shorter gears would be mandatory to make the DP work best. Gapless rings.. gapless rings.. gapless rings.. are best.. are best.. are best. You will not dislike them. Double check engine spec's and calculate actual static compression ratio(SCR) before choosing a cam. All I got for now.
