Overheating

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by wolfheads, Apr 26, 2014.

  1. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

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    Ok, I've replaced the water pump, radiator, hoses, flushed out the entire system three times with vinegar and water until it ran clear, replaced the thermostat, install a high volume electric radiator fan and it still wants to run hot. And by hot I mean 210+ then I shut it down.
     
  2. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Running hot ?

    Could you have installed a "reverse rotation" water pump by mistake ? Its been done and it would certainly cause the problem you're experiencing.
    Just wondering .
    Cometized


     
  3. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

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    That's a good idea to look into. Never even considered that. I didn't see that option when I purchased it at advance auto.
     
  4. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    If the radiator is more than a few years old, just replace it. A new radiator and thermostat will solve overheating problems most of the time.
     
  5. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

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    Yes, I've replaced the radiator, water pump and hoses. Thermostat too. Tried it with and without the thermostat. Flushed out the heads with a hose after taking the intake off. The results are the same.
     
  6. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Did you replace the head gasket lately? If so, does the words "FRONT" face the front of the block?
     
  7. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    Check it with a different gauge. I have a friend who's gauge was reading 15 degrees hotter than it really was.
     
  8. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    The reverse pumps have a wider bolt pattern for pulley/fan, if you have the orig pulley setup you can't install the wrong one...

    BTW 210* isn't really overheating, can run all day at that temp and be fine, get nervous if it's headed past 225*...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2014
  9. mavdog71

    mavdog71 Member

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    Look down the filler neck with a flash light if you can see any near 50% of the tubs pluged you need to replace the radiator or have it boiled out.
     
  10. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

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    The radiator and water pump are new. I drove it yesterday and the temp kept rising. It got up to 230 so I pulled over to let it cool. Here's a hint... It doesn't tend to overheat when at idle. Only when driving at higher rpm.
     
  11. daydreamer

    daydreamer Mavmenace

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    Do you have a fan shroud installed.Is the rad for a 6cly car or a V8 rad. Also use a V8 rad from a mav with A/C. Or use a 7 blade fan from a Maverick car with A/C. I use the 7 blade fan and did travel anywhere in 100* heat and not 1 problem. Now you said it hadnew hoses. Do they have springs inside the hose. A friend had the same heating problem and discovered the bottom hose was collapsing, causing a blockage.ck it out. good luck(y)
     
  12. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    yep.. collapsed hose is a good place to look. Improperly installed/misaligned gaskets too. Aside from that.. regardless of the type of fan used and for that matter you can easily run without one at speed.. if the forward movement of the car pushing more air through the rad doesn't help drop temps?.. I'd be looking at the timing curve. Pretty well known that misadjusted(retarded) timing can cause similar issues. That poorly styled quench space and combustion chamber design lends itself to moderate amounts of total lead up into the 40 degree range.

    Try this simple test to see if timing is way off. Advance initial timing to 12-15 degrees(depending on where it's at now/where you're starting from) and see if it pings. If not?.. test drive it at anything below around 2,600 - 2,800 rpm MAX and do NOT rev it up since total advance will likely be far too high adter bumping the initial.

    You should also test the vac advance pot to see if it's contributing at light throttle angles as it should be since a malfunction there will have similar affect in retarding timing too. You can simply disconnect the hose from the carb and suck on it till it has vacuum.. then put your tongue on the hose end and wait for about 30 seconds to see if it loses vacuum. Or.. do it the right way with a handheld vacuum pump. lol
     
  13. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

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    overheating continued

    I started it up this morning and let it reach 190 degrees. Had the radiator cap off and there was no movement of the water yet the water in the radiator was hot. I noticed this yellow crud in the mouth of the radiator. I have flushed the system out 4 times. The water is not circulating through the block for some reason. And what is this yellow crud floating in the radiator? Could it be something that's breaking up in the engine/heads water ports that is causing the blockage?
     

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  14. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    tough to see the consistency.. but maybe looks like dislodged and churned calcium lime deposits?

    How long was this motor run.. and stored.. after the cooling system was replaced?
     
  15. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

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    Actually the vehicle was dormant for about 3 years before I purchased it. The water in the radiator water was rusty. Flushed it out and replaced the antifreeze at that point. I drove it daily for a couple of years after getting it running. Replaced the fuel tank, plugs. points, plug wires, filters, vital fluids when I bought it. It all of a sudden overheated one day. Since that time I replaced the water pump, radiator, hoses, thermostat and pulled the intake off and flushed out the water ports in the heads until it ran clear. Still had the overheating problem. Installed a high volume electric fan to help the manual fan. Flushed out the whole water system 4 times and replaced with fresh antifreeze. Checked it this morning with the radiator cap off to see if there was circulation on the radiator. No flow but the water did get hot. Just wasn't circulation And that's when I noticed the yellow crud.
     

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