And now I'm not so sure about the choice in this hydro clutch setup. The access to the bolts on the engine side of the firewall is bi-atch. They could have enlarged the bolt spacing a bit to allow the use of a box end wrench to the bottom bolts on both the master cylinder and firewall (the engine side bracket spaces the master cylinder out about an inch and a quarter, with two bolts thru the firewall and two bolts holding the M/S to the bracket) The bolt spacing is too tight to allow you to easily get most box end wrenches on these two bottom bolts, this is extremely aggrevating to say the least. The first plate I fabbed was just all wrong so I'm starting another. Fortunately I bought a 1/4" aluminum plate that was large enough to make 2-3 plates. It's extremely difficult to get alet all the holes required in the correct locations going by tape measurements under the dash. There are two large holes to cut (hole saws, one that's 1-3/8's *(master cylinder) and another for the brake rod that's 1-3/4", plus four that are 3/4" for the four bushings behind the pedal support. These four bushings space the pedal support out about 5/8" from the firewall so as the plate I'm fabbing is 1/4", I'm going to use 3/4" flat washers to fill in the extra space and force the plate against the firewall. All this hassle further convinces me that going with McCleod's hydro kit would be the better choice over the Modern Driveline kit as this plate is already made. I definitely would have bought this had I been aware of it before buying the M/D kit. Next on the agenda for the Comet is an in trunk fuel cell, then replacing the old Hedman long tubes with a newer set along with a complete new exhaust system run out the rear of the car. Also need to pull the tail housing and change out the speedo drive gear as I installed the wrong one when I rebuilt the transmission. I'm going to get pics posted as I go along with this work.
Ok, I've got it finished. I solved the bottom bolt issue by using a 3/8" headed 5/16" bolt (with a washer built into the bolt head) this is an EFI intake bolt that's about 1-1/2" long, which isn't a problem now with the thicker firewall. I gound off a flat on one side of the washered head, this allowed the head to fit up against the bracket and effectively locks it in place while you tighten the nut on the interior side of the firewall. The bottom mastercylinder bolt would also benefit from the use of a smaller head ( like an allen headed bolt) both these bolts were a major pain in the ass to get to before. I was going to use multiple 3/4" washers to fill in the space behind the pedal support to sandwich the firewall plate, but instead took the first plate I made and cut off the mastercylinder part of the plate and used the pedal support side and two 3/4" washers per bushing to effect the same thing. There is zero firewall flex now and this mod will out last the car. If anyone is interested in doing this same thing to stiffen the firewall, I can furnish a plate or a pattern to make their own. I have enough 1/4" aluminum plate to make two more plates.
One other thing about this kit: you really have to pay attention as to how you connect the clutch pedal to the lever on the inside bracket. If you don't, then depressing the pedal causes the lever to deflect and that puts a sideways motion on the master cylinder rod. I had to play with several combinations of washers on the bolt and heim joint to get it right to where the master cylinder rod would run straight. Part of that problem is the clearance in the compound lever and it's pin, this makes it critical in getting the clutch pedal rod mounted correctly.
Nice job and good info to know I`m doing a 5spd and hyd clutch in my Sprint. So if you were to do it again you would use the Mcleod instead??
Nice fab work. I have to do this to my car also using a Tilton master cylinder so I'm taking notes. I already have the outside of my firewall plated so it wouldn't be mich to add an additional inside plate for good measure
Funny you should ask this, I was on Summit's site a few days back and tried to pull up the McCleod kit and couldn't find it there. Not sure it's still available but I didn't go to McCleod's site to look there. If you do not want or are unable to fab a plate, then The McCleod kit is the way to go. (if it's still available) As is, the Modern kit doesn't provide any support to the firewall as would also be the case in any kit that doesn't include a plate to stiffen the wall. You've got to realize that with a hydro kit, you're putting your foot's effort against the firewall to work the master cylinder, just as you are with the brakes. The only reason I checked for flex in wall was due to the experience I had with my V8 Ranger. It ain't a good feeling to actually put your foot thru the floor (wall) contrary to what the old saying is (regarding the gas pedal) Specially if you're nowhere near home and loose the clutch. You can still shift a Toploader to some degree without the clutch, I wouldn't attempt it with a T5 or the other newer transmissions that are somewhat more fragile than the Toploaders.
There's lots more room to work with inside the car (with the engine in place) than the outside to install a plate, once you remove the pedal support. There's no way to get a plate large enough with the firewall as is on the outside with everything in the way. I'd get someone to work the pedal with what you have now to allow you to check for flexing in the wall to see if you need something extra.
