So I finally got my car back together and fired it up and was tuning it (less than ten mins) and go it to idle, So I turned it off and added water into it and went back to fire it up and it doesnt even crank over :/ So im thinking uh oh the block seized over and now it wont crank. So I went to turn it at the crank and it doesnt even want to budge clockwise but it can go counter clock wise 1/4 turn back and stops. I tried to go and crank it back over but once again it stops and does a loud clunk sound like the battery is dead (but isnt cause I just charged it back up and was working fine when tuning it) so my broinlaw says to check the spark plugs to see if anything shows up in their and as I took off cylinder # 2 coolant starts to pour out Now I'm wondering if I have a warped head, seized block or bad starter (which my guess is the first 2) But if anyone can give my some insight on this i'd sure appreciate it
it could be a cracked head or block also. what ever it is it will require removal of the head to repair. so you need to start pulling it apart. one thing. are you referring to the second cylinder from the front of the motor on the passenger side as #2?
thats what I was hoping it wasnt gonna be (cracked head) there goes my edelbrock heads :/ and yes I am on #2
dont condemn the head yet. it could be a problem with the head gasket. i asked about the #2 cylinder because chevy numbers the cylinders differently so the #2 would be at the front corner and could be getting coolant from the coolant passages next to the intake runner, but not the case on ford cylinder #2. with the cylinder filled with coolant is called hydrolocked. it is possible to bend the connecting rod. even just with the starter motor. im not sure of an easy way to check this. maybe compare the piston height at tdc on that cylinder and another to see if its lower.
Yeah that what I'm hoping it's gonna be is the cylinder head gasket but only one way to find out I'll let you know when I take off the cylinder head to see what happened with it thanks!! :Handshake
10 minutes is a long time without water. A few seconds is a long time. You could have cracked a cylinder wall or warp the aluminum heads
I took the "added water to it" to mean he added water, not ran it without water. Look for a vertical crack in the #2 cylinder wall. Check the heads too, I doubt it'll be a head gasket problem, when that happens, you usually get two cylinders with coolant in them. Need to pull the #2 rod too to check it for bends. If it is bent, it should show at TDC, that piston will be farther down the hole at TDC
Alright so I pulled off one side of the heads on the pass side. So far looking at the head, I cant see any cracks in it. also inspecting the head gasket im not seeing and tears in it. how would it look if it was blown out? also I am able to spin the crank now freely as well.
I know I should have said this earlier but would reusing the old intake gaskets cause this? when I tore off the intake before they still looked good so I just reused them.thanks!!
No. The #2 intake port is towards the middle of the intake, the coolant would have to bypass the #1 port somehow to reach the #2 port.
Possibly that small hole closest to the junction of the #1 and #2 fire rings ? I don't recall that being there on other gaskets. I would still have the heads checked for cracks and do a close visual inspection of the #2 cylinder wall. Pull that piston and rod out two and check the rod to see if it's bent. Do not just assume it's a gasket failure and over look every other cause
So I finally got the engine out the other day and looking at the connecting rods and the look fine..all 8 pistons got all the way up to the top and all the piston walls look fine when I keep rotating the engine...Now that I have it out I was thinking about changing out the main bearing on it since my oil pressure seems to sit very low on it chaning out the connecting rod bolts with arp and the main bolts with arp too as well. when I first start it up it has around 35 psi but goes doesn to about 10 psi. Ive changed out the pump probably about a year ago with a milodon hv oil pump and a arp oil pump shaft. Im gonna get the heads checked out too soon but I was wondering shoud I also check the block to see if its ok too before I put in the new bearings? thanks!!
make sure you are running the correct intake gaskets, too. There area a couple different water passage designs thru the years around the water ports. Put #2 at BDC and look for signs of a crack in the cylinder walls. What is the history of the engine and the heads? What intake is being run? There is a lot of rust on the head gaskets. SPark
