I had to replace my ignition switch and now my key doesn't want to return from start by its self... It seems a little loose... the key has always been stiff in winter months and fine in warm weather... Do I need to re adjust my switch or should I replace my key lock ? I noticed that sometimes the car acts like the battery is low, I just hear the solenoid clicking... Before I put all new parts (mini starter,150amp alt.) it always worked... The reason I replaced the ignition switch is: no start condition and all my gauges were dead...
The lock cylinders can get gummy and be stiff... Remove and wash it out good with WD-40 followed by something like 5-56 electrical cleaner(oil in lock is bad, attracts dirt)... Finally once it's dry, shoot a little dry graphite into it and work that around... If operation is still stiff, you may need to clean the mechanics of the steering wheel lock pin...
I had the same problem once, for me, it turned out that the new switch was faulty. Once I returned/replaced it, the key cylinder returned to the run position with no problem.
Will a bad switch cause the car to act as if the battery was low ? Because sometimes it just clicks... I'm thinking if it clicks the solenoid, the switch is working... Did I adjusted it right ? I followed the Chilton manual, I installed the switch with the key in the off position and the key out of the lock... centered the switch on the studs tightened it down then pulled the pin...
I don't think its the adjustment myself, if the internal spring is failing to return the lock mechanism to the run position. When solenoid clicks and engine does not turn over and start, have you hooked a volt meter to the battery to see what the voltage is? Does it require jump starting when that happens?
Battery is 12.7 volts and checks out as good. the key lock doesn't seem to have much tension on it to return to run, but the starter doesn't hang up (doesn't keep spinning starter) You can feel the spring when turning to start position but it's kind of sloppy when you let it go after it starts...
If the solenoid clicks the switch is doing it's job, no ifs and or buts... Either there is a problem inside the solenoid that handles battery current, the cables(incl connection to battery, block, etc), battery, or starter has a issue... A slightly loose starter can cause a click with no crank...
Does the lock its self have a return spring ? I've always had a small issue with it returning to run postion... I ordered a switch from NAPA today, someone said their switch is better, I'll almost bet there all made by the same company...
No it doesn't, switch has the spring... Iin that last post was thinking you'd be able to check for binding without the sw connected... If lock operation is stiff with switch loose, it isn't your problem... Refer to my earlier post about cleaning lock...
I bought another switch from NAPA... This time I will also clean the lock, but before I do anything I'll check and see why it only clicks sometimes... I have a new lock, I wonder if I should change it out just because it's there ?
If I changed it, I'd swap pins from the old lock so key would still be same as door... Unless it's something commercial that had the key in & out 40 times a day, usually the lock is fine with cleaning... Biggest issue is "floppy ears" as they were prone to come loose on the earlier units...
I have the same problem with my key lock. I changed the ignition switch and now the lock does not return. How do you take the lock off of the steering column?
