You need to replace the secondary pod tops and drill them to install a balance tube to get em opening at the same rate. I used the same setup (twin 1850's) on my 427 but ran them with a 1:1 linkage, with a balance tube on the secondarys
The balance tube tops go on when the carbs get rebuilt. This is just mock-up to be sure I could get all the linkage to work. Had to do some trimming on the carb base for the bellcrank pivot to clear the baseplate and slightly modify my original '62 throttle pedal to get everything working correctly. I'm using Holley kit #20-73 so I still have quick change tops and the balance between the carbs. http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-73/10002/-1 SPark
Only if his 302 is turning over 7,000 rpm. The regular Performer isn't much better than the stock iron 4 bbl intake. Just so happens I have an 0-1850 for sale with your choice of electric or manual choke.... But yeah, you need to get rid of that pea shooter exhaust first.
So I guess I've boiled it down to 3 options....... 1) Self built 2 1/2 exhaust 2) Replace current carb for 4150 style carb ( best performance carb recommends would be nice ) 3) Metering block kit from quick fuel for the 4160 ( list 6619 ) I currently have or other parts recommendations to improve carb performance ( already have vac spring kit along with pump cam kit and have started jetting just need to get the kit to finish secondary jetting ). With this option I can also afford to order a weiand stealth or similar intake to replace the current torker 289 ) What do you guys think??
I've used the Quick Fuel metering block kits. Unless you have dyno access and can measure your A/F ratio and see what your power and fuel curves are doing, don't waste your time or money. They work but they are not a simple bolt on like they advertise. Go with the exhaust at this time. As time progresses, switch to a better carb. You're probably going to enjoy the exhaust mods immediately. JMO, SPark
Should I just suck it up and order a metering plate. I never could figure out what plate came in it with the castings on it. I have 70 main jets so I'm guessing I need a 74 secondary plate?
Click on "Carb Numerical Listings" to see what original is on your carb. http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp I wouldn't waste any time or money on that carb. It's designed as a smog carb. SPark
Got it. A friend is gonna let me borrow his holley 650 dp for a while. I got scoopers jet sizes etc etc as a baseline as we have identical setup except cams.
I get the points being made here.. but if the IFR is large enough to support the mixture screw adjustments?(and I thought you said it was when we talked about this).. there is absolutely nothing wrong with that carb. I also thought you said that you already ordered(already had?) the rear jet plate? Smog carb or not.. every and anything of relevance here can be changed or mod'd to work with a small and moderately cam'd/inducted engine like yours. Cut the choke horn off it.. install the short style stubstack.. put jets in the rear.. spread the jets as mentioned prior.. tune it.. and enjoy it. Trying to push a bunch of fuel from a double pumper into that tiny little torkers plenum will likely have you detuning it just to make it work more effectively. As I also mentioned on the phone. If you really have a 2" exhaust like you thought?.. after the heads restrictive exhaust ports.. there's your next biggest high-rpm cork in this setup. 2.5 inch will be a perfect balance between mid-range and top-end power bands. That alone will extend your redline and be worth at least 10-15 horses in itself. Next in line is that tiny little torker1 manifold. IMO.. and as mentioned prior.. the air-gap style manifold will net you more average power and off-idle torque.. but the engine will flash right past the meat of it's power band due to your short gears. When you have 4.10's.. who the hell cares about the 2,00-3,000 rpm range, right? IOW's.. it'll drive and cruise better with the dual plane.. shift rpm recoveries will surely be a bit better too.. but may not necessarily ET any better than a bigger single plane would. Please remember that your current torker1 was only ever intended for mildly modded setups with its EXTREMELY limited plenum and runner volumes and I myself would move to a larger single plane ASAP. And FYI.. an "as-cast" air-gap style manifold will start to lose out past around 5,000 rpm compared to a medium sized single plane. On the other hand.. that little torker is so damned tiny.. an air-gap manifold may gain all over the place compared to what you currently have now. You shouldn;t believe all the hype.. but that's obviously your call. After all is said and done here.. 2.5" exhaust.. cut choke tower/stubstack/proper rear jet.. mid-rise single plane.. you will have a solid 30 horsies waiting to be unbridled. And better yet.. with your 4.10's.. the car will rev higher and be faster all around.
