So my car now has a scat crank/rod 347 @ 10.5:1 comp. RHS 180cc alum heads, Xe294 comp cam i think? it's "bracket/pro street" cam with .558 lift. performer rpm intake, 650DP carb (tuned with wideband) trans is built with a 3500 custom stall...so i took it out to a little test and tune this sunday and my the car was hooking up decent but i seemed to be gutless off of the line, i've had better 60' times with a mild 302 on street tires. i was on slicks and like i said hooking decent, it just kept running 1.79 60's and just felt flat out slow. right now my timing is set @ 12* initial and i can't recall what total is..been a bit since i set it. should i have more initial timing? what should i be looking for here. i want to get this thing sorted out on motor before i even decide to spray it. next race is a 1/4 track in 2 weeks and i hope to have it figured by then. any idea's are more than welcome as ill be able to change it and test it out somewhere..it should be A LOT faster..atleast 1.5 60's. oh and i couldn't change anyhting at the track because it was a hour and a half haul, i borrowed a trailer and the connector was old as hell so i had to solder and change it which then made me run late and i forgot all my tools
You have a very similar build to mine and I run 1.50s 60' did you happen to notice what your stall actually was, what tire size and what rpm were you launching at. What was you final et and trap speed. Probably with a little more seat time you will get it a little lower in the 60. I am willing to bet your stall is not as high as you think it is especially if it is an off the shelf converter. My timing is set the same as yours but could bump it up to 14
It's a custom 3500 stall I had built for my car. Tires are 26x8.5x15R ET Drag I was just foot braking it around 2500 because my line lock wouldn't work. (No trans brake yet) I'll grab the slips tonight and tell you the mph and time.. 5 runs were al basically the same thought.. I did end up a couple mph faster at h end but nothing close to where it should be
the 330' times were 5.26ish the track was actually 384' in which i went 5.8 (up and down a litte, not much) and at the 384' was all 69mph. on them all.
It's just a Mexican block.. Tons of guys spraying more on worse blocks than mine.. And at this point if it don't go faster I might deep down inside want it to blow up. 4:11 gears Intake is 250 and exhaust 256
Why would he have an issue using nitrous? I've thrown the giggle juice at many a 302 junk yard blocks and never had an issue that I could say was soley from using nitrous on a non aftermarket block.
With that duration, 18* initial ignition advance. But with the nitrous you need a way to pull timing out when spraying. If your tune is right nitrous is no problem. I ran a stock block with...wait for it.... cast pistons for over a dozen years with a 125/150 shot. But I had a good nitrous controller. PITA to keep filling the bottle, though.
Why? Because there's lots of stories around of them grenading while being sprayed. Me personally ? I stick to the occasional use at the dentist's office. My personal view on it's use is, if you got to use it, you've already lost the race.
Yep.. I see dozens of low budget rides every year that have been running it for years. Some damned good advice right there^. A nice progressive controller can get these stock blocks well into the 600 horse range. It's usually the guys that hit it all at once and/or spin ridiculous rpm's that have the most issues. And the heavier cars with taller gears also play hell on stock blocks too since the take longer to rpm through the gears and create longer critical stress periods. Nice setup with some great potential. I'd even go higher with the initial and tighten up the total to max out @ around 38'ish.. and "all in @ around 2,400-2,600 rpm". That will help you come off the brake/hit the stall a bit harder. I'm working on a set right now and those particular heads have very nice chamber designs and won;t/shouldn't need much more total than that. You might even take a couple degrees out to see what the ET does with 36* too. If you PM me.. I can give tips on tuning/dialing in the advance curve to best suit your converters stall speed. All you need is a handheld vac pump and in-car manifold vacuum gauge with about 300 feet of room to do "rinse and repeat" testing. In some cases.. you can even squeeze a bit more stall speed out of existing converters which of course gives the added bonus of higher torque multiplication.
Going to try messing with the timining tomorrow after i fix my gf's car...tie rod broke on her today while driving..so ill start with timing and see how everything runs and take it out for a test drive. if i do spray the car next weekend how much timing should i be pulling when spraying 150 on this motor.
Alright ladies and gent's...i finally got some serious time into it the last two days..started messing with the distributor. the best numbers i can get that im actually happy with are 36* total and ONLY 8* initial. doesn't seem like much to me at all but it's honestly the best numbers i've got so far. eveything else kept coming up with 45* total and 16 inital ect.
