Lower control arm bushing

Discussion in 'Technical' started by IndianFreakshow, Aug 18, 2014.

  1. IndianFreakshow

    IndianFreakshow Member

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    I need a little bit of insight on how to change out my bushings on my lower front control arms. I called my regular mechanic who said it would cost around $300.00. I can afford that but would rather not. Is replacing those bushings an easy enough job that I could tackle it at home? I have stands and a pretty good tool set. Any problems to look out for? Maybe scale difficulty from 1 to 10?
     
  2. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I did'nt know they sold LCA bushings. I thought the entire lower control arm assembly had to be replaced.
     
  3. IndianFreakshow

    IndianFreakshow Member

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    Perhaps you are right, to be honest I have no clue what I am up against at the moment. Once I get home and read up on my Chilton, I will have a small idea of what to do
     
  4. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

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    New lower control arms are $74 at my local auto parts store. I would rate it a 1 for difficulty, just remember to get an alignment when you're done.
     
  5. dyent

    dyent Member

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    Are you replacing them with same OEM rubber bushings? If so, you will have to press them in. Removing can be done either pressing them out or the rubber can be quickly torched out. You can also get poly bushings from Energy Suspension, I had mine since the late 80's with no problems whatsoever, these can be installed by hand without use of a press.

    Energy Suspension part numbers:

    4-3102 with 7/16" diameter bushings (most common size, but double check yours)
    4-3106 with 9/16" diameter bushings

    These must be used with existing outer metal shells and will last lifetime of the car! Like I mentioned, had mine
    for over 25 years........

    If your bushings are shot, you might want to check to see how the ball joints are, if they are worn, best get new replacement LCA's. You may also want to look into installing these
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MERCUR...cessories&hash=item2a4152f17d&forcev4exp=true
    as they will prevent any movement over the stock camber bolt........
     
  6. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    If you don't have the right tools....then the job is impossible to do at home. You will need a ball joint separator...for one.
     
  7. IndianFreakshow

    IndianFreakshow Member

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    [QUOT="Craig Selvey, post: 1027093, member: 21"]If you don't have the right tools....then the job is impossible to do at home. You will need a ball joint separator...for one.[/QUOTE]
    Yeah I don't have one : (
     
  8. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    Without knowing your skill level, it's hard to say.
     
  9. lynhrt210

    lynhrt210 Member

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    I change out upper and lower control arms with all new steering parts too and i'd rate it a 3 but a 5 if you dont know what your doing and yes make sure to get that alignment done right after too cause everything gets thrown off when you get all those parts changed out
     
  10. Mr Nick

    Mr Nick One with many questions

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    I would honestly go with the whole shebang and do the entire lower control arm. It's 2 bolts versus 5 ( not kidding ). It's a really simple, one day job.
     
  11. lynhrt210

    lynhrt210 Member

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    x2 that
     
  12. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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    My ball joint separator has always been a BFH on the ball joint stud. There is a nut attached to the ball joint at the lower part of the spindle. There are two nuts for the strut rod. There is the bolt for the sway bar, and the eccentric and bolt. If you do it yourself try to get the eccentric and bolt in roughly the same position so you can drive to the alignment shop without wearing your tires out.
     
  13. Bob Wiken

    Bob Wiken Chronologically Gifted

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    I'm in Fayetteville. I'll give you a hand. It's not too big a project.
     

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