Its time to break in my engine and I was wondering what break in oil I should use or can I just use the break in oil additive, this will be my first engine break in so I want to no what works and what doesn't thanks
No synthetics. Regular oil of your choice, oil change at 50, 250 and 500 miles. Break in complete, run your favorite oil.
To me, it is not worth the risk in the investment. Spend a few bucks for something good. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rpo-11487/overview/ Micah
we ran mine with just regular 10w-30 for 2o minutes, changed it, then again at about 250 miles then 500. haven't had any problems.
This is what my routine is: All my engines have been flat tappet - During assembly, lots of assembly lube plus a moly paste on the cam and lifters. I use a ZDDP additive for the extra zinc, mixed into a regular dino oil like Valvoline. 10W-30 or 5W-30 depending on time of year here in the north. I drill prime the engine watching until I see oil coming out at the pushrod at every rocker arm. Then I put the valve covers on and drill prime again while watching a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I take the pressure up to highest reading and let the drill run about 15 seconds. Then stop the drill, let the pressure fall back to zero and then run it back up again to full pressure for 30 seconds. I do this cycle 1 more time at 30 seconds. Then I put in the distributor and make all needed electrical connections, triple checking firing order, timing set up and plug wires - as I think one of the most damaging things you can do to a new cam is crank away on the starter without the engine running right away and getting the RPM up to 2000 for 20 minutes. Or worse, having a crossed plug wire and a back firing misfire once it is running. So with great anticipation, get it started and adjust timing for a smooth runner ( I do this by ear) and then take it up to 2000 rpm and hold it there for 20 minutes. While it is running monitor it very closely for heating - over heating due to air pockets in coolant or lean condition, bad timing. If you did all your prep work diligently there will be no problems with this. One of the reason I triple check everything. After the 20 minutes of cam break-in, I idle it down, make the proper timing adjustments, carb adjustments if needed and then run the rpms up and down from idle to about 3000. I'm cracking the throttle here and shutting the throttle closed rapidly. This makes a vacuum pull on the rings that will help make sure they are seated. A vacuum gauge here will tell you a lot about the rings. If all looks good I shut it all down. Let it cool down and drain out the oil with the added zinc, assembly lube, moly paste soup. It often looks horrible, chunky dark. Don't let that worry you and don't forget to change the filter too. Now I add just fresh, dino based oil - no additives. If the car is able to drive I take it out and I don't really baby it too much but I don't beat on it either. If it is not able to drive, I just do some more testing and tuning in the shop. Regardless of mileage - I change oil after 2 more hours of run time. Now I change and use dino oil again but I also add 1 qt of Lucas Oil Treatment. This will be good until the next oil change time and if you are going to use a synthetic, this change is when I would switch to it. During these early days, watch oil consumption. They can use a bit while everything is sealing up, but really not that much if everything is breaking in properly. This is what I do and it has served me well for many decades.
If you haven't already, hopefully you used a good cam/lifter assembly lube.such as joe gibbs driven or ZDDP Z-Paste If you have dual valve springs, remove the inner spring prior to the 20 min 2k rpm cam breakin (this is more cruicial then anything) As for breakin oil check out Joe Gibs Drivin BR30 After about 500 miles switch to Joe gibbs HR2 ...if you want to run synthetic switch to HR4 or Amsoil Zrod after 1k miles
Here is a scan of the Break In sheet that came with my new flat tappet engine. . The people that built mine from Arizona have built thousands of quality engines.
Back in the '60s ZDDP was approx same as the reduced amounts in oils today(650-700ppm), AFAIK there wasn't anything in the owners manuals about heat cycling and changing oil, just take it easy and vary speeds for first 250-500 miles... Of course most of us are going to do the 20 minute 2K RPM break in(after the first 10 min it's OK to vary the speed up and down somewhat but never let it idle) and a good shot of zinc can't hurt, though I have read over 1800-1900 ppm actually reduces it's effectiveness... For a roller cam motor like the late 5.0, the whole 20 minute break in is unnecessary... Bring it up to temp at a high idle and go riding... I managed to bounce the fresh roller 5.0 T-Bird motor off the 6250 RPM rev limiter within about a 1/2 mile of the house...
Valvoline VR1 comes in several different straight grade viscosities, costs about $7/qt, and has upwards of 1,800 ppm zinc/phosphorus. Also has decent amounts of calcium which further reduce metal to metal contact during break in periods. After an easy to progressively more moderate break in period of around 400-500 miles or so.. hey, you waited this long to get your foot back in it and you can wait a few more days until everything's meshed together nicely too, right?.. then run a warm compression check to see how things sealed up. If all is good?.. switch over to a synthetic if you really want you moneys worth out of that new motor. And guess what.. Valvoline VR1 also comes in synthetic too. PS. the VR1 synthetic is BLUE! And who doesn't want blue colored blood circulating around in their blue oval? lol
It doesnt matter if oil today had the same amount of zddp or more then the 60s 70s as todays oil has an abundant calcium concentration in their detergent packages. Calcium strips any metal to metal barriers, which is what ZDDP creates.. The main thing is using the correct oil formulation during breakin, anything past that is truely up to you. I wouldnt use any new API rated oil for initial breakin due to calcium detergents. Cam manufactures dont even recommend using diesel oil anymore, as they reduced zinc in their formulation too
lots of good info here Ive heard the never let the car idle on break in before I dont know the brands and who has the best formula but it doesnt hurt to buy whatever your enfgine builder thinks is the best since I do believe YOU built this motor all of the guys above have good advice and they all say pretty close to teh same thing TRIPLE check EVERYTHING pre lube the engine by spinning the oil pump rod with a drill have the engine ready to run off of the key or a starter button INSIDE the car and have a rpm gauge of sort maybe a tack well within your sight so you can easily see the rpms once the car is started and running keep watching the oil pressure and water temperature change the oil after your first start up session change the oil after 200 miles then 500 miles then I would change it again the second it hit 1000 miles just for kicks and to be on the safe side then after that you should be able to drive it every day anywhere you want moderately of course for the first 5000 miles or so after that TRY not to beat on it and it should last you forever if everything was built right and broke in right good luck
I would just change oil after or shortly after cam breakin Refill with Break oil change at 500mi with youre choice of oil 1k is a good Time to switch out if wanting to use Synthetic instead of dino. Also taking it too easy is not a good thing either. .if you take it too easy your rings will never seat and youll have sbitty oil consumption Id just do like 3 light to medium accellerations then let it decel on its on perferable set on street from stop and a set on the hiway like 40 to like 65 or so just dont beat on it nor keep a steady rpm during the 1st 1k miles fluctuation is key or just pay to have the engine brokein on the dyno and call it a day
