After 3 hours of reading last night I have seen people with various opinions. Trying to clarify up so I can make the right decision the first time. I currently Have fron disc brakes with a 1975 Disc/drum M/C. I am converting the back brakes to disc. Can I leave the M/C that i have in there?
I believe that there is a 10 psi residual valve in the master cylinder and that will cause the rear brakes to slightly drag. so you can use a punch to break the valve or get a master without a built in valve. If you have power brakes you can use a versaille master. Otherwise I read on a manual system you want to use a master that is 7/8" or smaller.
If you can adapt a Tilton or Wilwood racing master cylinder with any residual built in, just use the 2 pound residual valves sold by Summit - it's what I used on my stock cars with 4 wheel disc brakes
Thank you for the response. Since I already have the disc/drum m/c in the car I will try that. I took it apart tonigh and did not find a residual valve in it so since it worked form 71Gold I will see.
the reason I asked...the brake system I have now has no prop. valve. the lines run from the MC to the front brake calipers and from the MC to the rear calipers. the larger rear tires I run are the bias for the system. this is the same system that Coupe Performance (Scott) runs on their street/drag cars. I got one of the MC they use and the instructions how to plumb it. here is the 347 they built for my Mav. me and some of the Ga. Guys getting my Mav dyno tunes....
Wow that looks awesome! Bet it sounds even better. After my daughter gets here first year under her belt 347 here I come!!
Where can I get those instructions to eliminate the porpotioning valve? What diameter tires are you running?
I put disc brakes on the rear, 96 Crown Victoria don't seem to have any problems with it I got a washer from a member on here to take up space in the back back plate
