Alright well I finally got the maverick running!!!! I was right, I just got the battery back from auto zone today and it's fully charged, I went to go start it and it was just purring well that is until I had to piss her off, but she is loud and tons of horsepower with the flow master, I got the front right wheel off, I'm currently taking the tire off (on a budget) so wanted to save any money instead of spending any unnecessary money like how my dad told me to just get a new battery cause the one that came with it is old and won't last so just throw it away, but I proved him wrong, now I wanna replace all the fluids so I don't mess up the engine and so I can finally give it a clean up, what are all the fluids that need changing, oil, power steering, radiator coolant, etc. For the oil, what type do I go with like what mixture? And what oil filter should I go in doing, also for the radiator coolant need help finding what type, what do you guys recommend or use for any (more then what I listed^) of the fluids, thanks
No need to change power steering fluid. Just make sure the level is where it needs to be. Do not overfill! Since your engine has a flat tappet cam, you should run 5 quarts of 10W -30 or 10W - 40 oil with a zinc additive. Ask your parts store person to show you their oils that have a zinc additive. It will be prominently noted on the oils container. The zinc oils cost more but will reduce cam wear. As far as an oil filter, get a Motorcraft FL1A. A 50/50 mix of any of the name-brand coolants will work. Don't forget to check your transmission and differential fluids. If their fluid doesn't have a strange odor or color no need to change them. Again, do not overfill!
15w40 Rotella has zinc in it. That's what I run in my flat tappet engines. With an fl1a and type f trans fluid in the trans. New 50/50 green coolant. you might want to check the gear oil in the rear also. It's a pain to change it but wouldn't hurt.
So does their 10W-30 which is what's in my Comet... http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated HDEO 2015.html Any of the HD 15W-40 have plenty of zinc... That said, for stock engine with already broken in std cam and springs, there's enough zinc in any of the oils to be safe...
I run the XG8A Fram filter, because it's 99% efficient @ 20 microns & the Motorcraft FL1A is only 80% @ 20 microns
I'd check the specs on Rotella first before assuming there's enough ZDDP in it. It's been said (on the net) that Shell cut the ZDDP in it in the past few years. Always pays to do the research and be sure. I would also recommend buying a battery charger too, the small ones don't cost much and are a life saver in dealing with old vehicles. It'll pay for itself in very little time.
Educate yourself and stop listening to hearsay, I've already posted PIQA analysis results a couple posts back... All HD oils that are rated API SL spec still have higher ZDDP than the now std SM/SN passenger car oils... They can't reduce ZDDP unless classification is changed/updated... Yes it's a good idea to look for the SL classification to be sure of what one is buying... http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated HDEO 2015.html
Rotella now has reduced levels of ZDDP, due to the fact that new diesel trucks have catalytic converters. On an old, stock engine, the cam is well broken-in by now and has low-pressure valvesprings anyway. You can run any brand of 10w-30 and it'll be just fine. With a newly rebuilt motor with a flat-tappet cam, definitely use break-in oil or at least a ZDDP additive during initial break-in, and might as well use it all the time, especially if you have a high-lift cam and/or stiff valvesprings.
Now I ask : What was the old level of ZDDP ? And is the new level enough protection for a flat tappet cam ? Diesels haven't had flat tappet cams for decades now. Personally I think this is akin to worrying about the lack of lead in fuel to cushion the valves. Unless you're really running it hard for long periods of time, there's really nothing to worry about.
Well then according to this^ we should all be running 5w30 Mobil 1 high mileage I know I will from now on
I don't know the previous level, but if it's been reduced enough to not damage catalytic converters, I can only assume that it's not enough for flat-tappet cams.
I don't think anyone's going to be driving their 40 year old Maverick/Comet (or any other 40 year old car) enough to worry about excessive cam wear. If it is a problem, now's the perfect time to convert to a roller cam.
Here's the actual link, no doubt a quality oil.. http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/mobil1530a.htm I just picked up a 5qt jug of M1 5W-30 HM for my '98 Grand Marquis... Not as much for the zinc but for the HM additives as it has a couple valve stem seals leaking a bit... All M1 HM oils are rated SL so zinc levels are all similar... The Euro Spec M1 0W-40 also has around 1100 ppm zinc... This oil is rated for as much as 15K mi between changes, similar in many ways to the M1 EP(Extended Performance) line but with the extra ZDDP... I have Quaker State 10W-40 Defy in the Cobra Jet, another HM with around 1000-1100 PPM zinc(it's also SL rated)... Yeah I'm waiting for the Quaker Sludge comments from the clueless that have no idea SOPUS(Shell Oil Products), bought QS around 20-25 years ago... Buy QS, you're getting a Shell Formulation... Lastly from the net...
Part of the cam failures everyone attributes to ZDDP was not due to the lack of it in the breakin oil. The two failures I had were due to poorly machined lifters, not the lack of ZDDP. failure over a long period of time would be due to the lack of ZDDP, my two failures happened in the first twenty minutes and only on a single lobe/lifter. This is why I caution people to not worry so much about the lack of ZDDP in their oil. Shell still bottles the older Rotella T, I've seen it many times on the shelf. Not sure why they'd drum it and not bottle it at the same time. Just don't make sense.
I was reading on another forum several months ago about how there were lots of cam failures back in the '70s & '80s, long before the reduction of ZDDP. For example, Chevrolet had numerous stock cam failures in the '70s. I just use the ADDP additive as a precaution. That way, if my cam does go bad, at least I know it wasn't my fault.
