ok before i get the whole "if it's not broke don't fix it speech" trust me i heard it already!!!!! So my 71, 302 was running fine when i parked it and decided to do the cap, button and wires.... needless to say she is not running well now. timing set to 10*, idles fine sounds good, reves nicely..... try to take off and is chug- chug die........ WHERE DID I GO WRONG???.... (i know trying to fix what what not broken......) New parts........ * plugs * wires * cap/ button * distrubutor...... (maybe going from dual to single vac. advance did it???) * pertronix ignitor II pick-up ( no points) * MSD 6A ignition box
I assume you purchased quality parts, wires, cap and button? If you still have your old parts, try swapping out one thing at a time. I'd start with the dizzy.
I've never had to deal with a dual distributor, but I know one line is for vacuum advance, and the other would retard the timing for some sort of emissions reason. As long as you connected the vacuum advance, and plugged off the line that was meant to retard timing(and isn't really necessary, even on dual distributors), going from a dual to single distributor should not be a problem. Maybe use a vacuum meter to make sure there are no leaks.
My experience with this situation - 9 out of 10 times it is a plug wire crossed check and double check firing order and plug wire routing
Thanks Guys for your input, i will check all the above..... 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 correct?....... just came from the parts store, could it be a power valve in my Holley 4brl? spark plug gap @ 45* or there about?...... Going to go back to the dual advance distributor add this new MSD 6AL box, run the Blaster 2 Coil and see what happens.... will keep you posted....
From what I googled the timing order is correct. A bad power valve would cause a rich condition at idle and low speeds. The power valve is supposed to kick in when intake vacuum is low(throttle is more open). So it is possible that there is a vacuum leak causing the power valve to kick in. Or if there was any backfire when you were setting the timing it could have blown the diaphragm in the power valve. Run the idle screws in and see if the motor continues to run. If it does, chances are the power valve is blown(or kicking on because of low intake vacuum).
Were all of the new parts changed at the same time as the cap, rotor and wires or were they installed and working before the cap change? Does you camshaft have the 351w firing order by chance?
If it was running fine before, you either have the firing order wrong or a vacuum line is disconnected.
Knock the plug gap down to 35 thousandths too...You dont need that big a plug gap. Sounds like firing order is incorrect. vac leak, OR... You have the dist off a tooth.
I just noticed too you list the Ignitor II - those need 12v, unlike the original Ignitor I - which will run fine with the stock resistor wire voltage.
Not sure why you've got the MSD connected to it, the Ignitor II doesn't need this. Also the Blaster II for the MSD may also be incompatible with the Ignitor II, which may only work with a points style coil. As for the vacuum advance, the front port (on the distributor pod) is the advance, the rear port is the retard.
Would you believe the carb was the issue? Replace all the plugs, changed to a 600 cfm Edlebrok and now jus need some fine tuning....... does not seem to have the same kick as the holley I took off but good for the time being.... any suggestions on timing and tuning for this set up?
If you don't know what your total timing is (initial + centrifugal), just advance it 4 degrees over the stock setting. I run 12° initial and 26° mechanical for a total of 38°.
