I will see if I can get a pic for you. It's been a few years but if you are using the stock AC system, it's a worthwhile mod. It's a 2001 Taurus motor FYI if you get one from a salvage yard. Get the resistor and connectors and as much wiring as you can. The motor is mounted in a plastic housing that you can remove the torx retaining screw to separate the motor from the housing. I believe I used a section of exhaust tubing that I split and welded flanges that clamps the motor so I could mount to the same studs in the housing as the OEM motor. I had to clearance the housing to fit the bigger squirrel cage from the Taurus but it was a relatively minor amount and I used the Taurus resistor as well. I only use 3 speeds so I can retain the Maverick switch. I also recommend running a relay to bypass the switch for high speed. As of now I have to work on Dec 6, but if I can make it you're welcome to take a look at it.
thanks...this sounds like something others may be interested in... sorry Jeff for taking your thread a little sideways...
Very true. I did this mod sometime around 2004-05 when the replacement motor I bought developed the same bushing squeak after one season. Back to the original problem, if the motor isn't mechanically binding, the brushes and commutator in the motor may be burned. I have seen some issues lately with cooling fan and HVAC fan motors with excessive brush wear and /or material transfer causing the circuit to open. (some newer controllers are able to turn off the circuit when current is too high)
I'm having the same issue. I hear a loud "chirp/squeak" when I turn the A/C to high and no air blows out. Sometimes it will blow others it won't. Now my fuses keep popping. The owner before me put in an aftermarket radio. Would I begin troubleshooting the fuse panel to make sure it's not heating up?
I forgot all about this thread. My problem was a loose blower motor ground wire. The ground screw fell out from under the dash but the wire was leaning against metal.
