Actually, what I had was a kit w/ about 20+ pieces and not what I really needed. I know the one u are talking about is really simple. Fortunately, I did not need any tool.
If this don't correct the problem I will be lookin at the flex plate, d-shaft converter and motor mounts. My trans needs some attention "leaks" but shifts fine", so a priority early nx year.
Not to rain on your parade but a harmonic balancer really should not just slide on... That condition can cause pulley to wobble slightly on crank(if only a .001"), eventually wearing the crank snout...
I think they make snout sleeves to correct that problem...they are shims that slip over the crank snout.
For wear where the the seal lip rides on the balancer, but I've never seen or heard of something similar to fix a worn end snout(at least without having crank machined)... Those are a press fit with the balancer inside diameter being .001 or so smaller than crank snout... A neighbor had to replace the crank in his small block Chevy after using a poor fitting balancer...
Took the car out today and put a few miles on it. It is much improved w/ the damper rebuild. It eliminated in my estimation abt 80% of the buzz issue. I am going to investigate the possible issues, motor mounts, flex plate, TQ and drive shaft. Even though I may have other issues in the drv. train, the balancer was in obvious & definite need of service; I consider it time/money well spent. I had the rear end rebuilt abt 5 yrs ago the dr shaft had to be balanced and straightened; I don't have confidence it is where it should be. New Dr shaft in the works for upcoming season. I appreciate all the input and suggestions on this issue; I know a lot of the input was from folks w/ greater knowledge and experience on this stuff, compared to mine. However, I think for the time being, I will leave the setup/damper as is, and if it don't work out - acquire a total rebuild or crate motor. As if today, I believe I am going in a positive direction -- I guess - time will tell.
Look at it this way. At least you went forward and found out that a loose fitting rebuilt balancer is still far better than a loose fitting worn out balancer. Being that it's such a low powered cruiser type application I'd say you did good and can safely go onto the next weakest link. As for the balancer fitment. A little FYI to anyone who underestimates the severe environment that thing has to live in. There are very few engines that rely purely on mechanical fastener connections between the damper and crank snout and there is very good reason for this. The balancers natural function as a vibration cancellation device introduces friction(whether fluid, rubber inertia rings, or bb's are used) and the engine is constantly trying to outpace the dampers oscillation rate as rpm goes up and down or sustained in the higher rev ranges. This potentially allows the dampers hole ID to open up faster than the cranks snout will expand within its own normal operating range temp. This is why there is typically a half thousandth to 2 thousandth(.0005-.002) interference fit between the two parts. This bonds the two components together far better than just a bolt and washer ever will and helps to eliminate the back and forth movement against the woodruff key(which causes its own specific damage there as well). Imagine that 5 smaller bolts clamping around the perimeter of a driven wheel makes the bond far better than a larger single bolt in the middle. Many also don't completely understand that the keway slot and woodruff key are not machined within super tight tolerances which then introduces some slight slop back and forth.. some being worse than others. If you run a balancer too loose on the crank snout it WILL move around with heavy throttle variation and sustained higher rpm usage. For the lower powered/lower rpm stuff it's usually just some light fretting and galling between the two surfaces after a long while. Won't help bearing life one iota.. but other parts will likely wear out before then anyways. Lots of crappily built motors running around out there.. put gas in it and drive it.. life goes on. Now, install a loose fitting balancer onto something with even slightly decent power output, and that also likes to get revved up once in a while?.. the bearings and crankshaft will not be as long lived due to uneven wear. Run that on something even more powerful and rev happy?.. you can break cranks and toss balancers right off an engine. Use that "close enough" mentality on a centrifugal supercharger setup that's being crank driven? .. vroom.. vroom.. kapow. Interference fits are designed into the equation and shouldn't be overlooked if lifespan and safety is of any concern. Should be a non-issue in this particular combination of parts.
That is right low rpm cruiser non issue it is not a stroker a blown motor a big block on nitrous a pro stocker or a top fueler just an old 302 in a old Maverick drive and enjoy go on to next issue keep the old car alive
You and (groberts) are on the same page w/urs truly. As the car rarely clears 4000 rpm and I have been driving it for 6 yrs and 10+K miles w/ a beat out damper w/o any issues. I think it will probably go another 6 yrs w/ a better rebuilt damper. From here -- just going to put gas -oil, drive, hangout w/ gearheads in my area, attend some of the Comet/Mav events less than 300miles and if thing go downhill -- go to plan B.
